Sorry about hi-jacking your thread Eric.  But you did suggest this as a way of asking the list a question as only my replies show up.
I have a FAS jetta I4 engine in my 87 westy.  I want to do a pressure test of the cooling system.  My reservoir has a hose on it that I think I can use to pressurize the system.  But I don't know the size of the tank inlet the hose connects to.  The hose is marked >NBR/CR<  43/14/21  08:38 .  The first bit may be the manufacturer, after that I'm lost.  Can anyone decipher this and tell me if the hose size if in there somewhere?  
Dave B.the Boston one

-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Caron <ericcaron96@COMCAST.NET>
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Mon, Mar 27, 2023 2:20 pm
Subject: Re: [VANAGON] Blam! Bleeder valve destruction and some other thoughts!

Hi Bruce,

I thought one of the new tanks now had a inspection window. 

Good to know which one. 

Sad about the failure but glad all is good now.

I am considering that expansion tank as a future upgrade.  But I need to get the system working and the van running a bit before I can justify it. 

A friend has a spare original reservoir so that I s at least available in a pinch.  And, this one was replaced about two years ago by previous owner.

Finger’s crossed it keeps working a bit longer.

Eric Caron 

> On Mar 27, 2023, at 2:10 PM, Bruce Todd <beeceetee@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> 
> The aluminum tanks from GW have an inspection port for viewing coolant
> level.  BTW - I did order a GW aluminum tank - and it did leak - the
> mechanic caught the defect when pressure testing.  A one-off defect I
> suppose - the replacement has been solid.
> 
> I have had 4 plastic tanks - some lasted longer than others - 2 were
> supposedly the top replacement tanks but they all ended up cracking and
> leaking.  Just saw an original tank for sale on Craigslist here in
> Vancouver from a 87 Vanagon.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> On Mon, Mar 27, 2023 at 10:04 AM Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
> 
>> Correct!  The translucent nature of plastic affords some reassurance
>> about liquid inside.  The expensive Aluminum welded pressure tanks negates
>> this ability.  No problem!  They don't leak!  (Connecting hoses might.)  I
>> think Dennis pointed out once about the Massive size of Vanagon cooling
>> system.  I mean, the size of the radiator, the size of those big hoses
>> going fore and aft, the Pressure Tank, the Overflow Tank.  Lots of liquid.
>> Still....you don't want nary a drop to drip or steam out.
>> 
>>    On Monday, March 27, 2023 at 09:52:26 AM PDT, OlRivrRat <
>> olrivrrat@comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>>        Actually, most cars since the Mid’60s have a Coolant Overflow &
>> Recovery
>> 
>> system but what makes the Vanagons Expansion Tank necessary is the lack of
>> 
>> access to the Radiator which is where the Pressure Cap is located on most
>> all
>> 
>> other cars ~ The Vanagons Expansion Tank is really not much more that just
>> a
>> 
>> fat translucent Manifold where a Fill Point & Pressure Cap & Level Sensor
>> reside
>> 
>> & probably could very well have just been an opaque plastic or metal
>> manifold
>> 
>> as is found in some more modern cars but the Translucent Tank does provide
>> 
>> for much better Coolant Level Sensing both Electrically & Visually ~
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 26 Mar , 2023, at 5:08 PM, Dan N <dn92610@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Richard... you're right on...
>>> 
>>> I'd think this is a unique feature of the vanagon... maybe there are some
>>> cars out there that have it but I don't know about it...
>>> 
>>> For reference, my ML430 doesn't have that feature (although it's German).
>>> Only one coolant reservoir, recommended to fill it HALF way to leave room
>>> for expansion... Too much pressure? The coolant will be dumped on the
>>> ground. I have to top it up when the coolant is too low, under their
>> mark.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 3:28 PM Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@sbcglobal.net>
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> My understanding is this:  coolant gets hot.  It expands.  The coolant
>> in
>>>> Pressure Tank (the one with the blue cap) overflows and expels into the
>>>> Overflow Tank (the one behind the license plate).  Later, stuff cools
>>>> down....and magically coolant gets sucked back into Pressure Tank, and
>> all
>>>> is good for the next cycle of Hot/Cold.  If coolant diminishes, it is
>>>> because of some leak.  These days, most likely steam from Blue Cap or
>> the
>>>> Tank itself.  Remedies are available.
>>>> 
>>>> On Sunday, March 26, 2023 at 02:43:11 PM PDT, Dan N <dn92610@gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks Dennis...
>>>> 
>>>> This comes very very handy at the right time. My daughter came back
>> from a
>>>> long trip and she has to top up the expansion cooling tank every couple
>>>> hundred miles. A small cooling hose was replaced in Tucson, AZ and I
>> think
>>>> the shop didn't bleed it right. I will do it myself when the weather is
>>>> better... cold, rain, snow here in Oregon.
>>>> 
>>>> thank you... thank you...thank you,
>>>> 
>>>> dan
>>>> 
>>>> On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 8:05 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Adding to the recent discussion on the future of service support for
>> the
>>>>> Vanagon, having to deal with the cascade of parts failures that often
>>>>> accompanies repairs.  Imagine the impact this presents to a shop now
>> that
>>>>> the vehicle has to pushed off the lift and out of the way waiting for
>> mor
>>>>> parts.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Now back the technical.
>>>>> The hardest recovery for the Vanagon cooling system is having the
>>>> radiator
>>>>> and coolant pipes emptied. This is the worst case have to bleed the
>>>> system
>>>>> enough to get anything to flow. That bypass has to opened or the hose
>>>>> fittings opened enough for air to get out. I have even disconnected
>> that
>>>>> top hose and back filled the hose and coolant pipe as that bypass is
>> not
>>>>> really large enough to do this quickly.
>>>>> 
>>>>> As for method of bleeding I have post many times. The process needs to
>> be
>>>>> done quickly and be completed before the engine can significantly
>> warmup.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 2 nd person helps.
>>>>> Have person in rear ready to pour coolant and install cap. Screwdriver
>> or
>>>>> something to hold engine 1,800 to 2,000 rpm.
>>>>> Person in front to operate bleeder. Here is the process!
>>>>> 
>>>>> If system empty open radiator bleeder, fill pressure tank, allow
>> coolant
>>>>> to flow down as much as possible. This will allow some coolant to fill
>>>>> coolant pipes and bottom of radiator. Do not raise front! Both heater
>>>>> valves should also be open.
>>>>> Option, If you have the means to pressurize (test set) the system, do
>> so.
>>>>> You can use pressure to push the coolant up into the radiator. Close
>>>>> bleeder, add more coolant and use pressure opening bleeder, repeat
>> until
>>>>> you get coolant at the bleeder. This method will do 90% of the bleeding
>>>>> process.
>>>>> Without the pressure fill option, start engine and immediate get revved
>>>> up
>>>>> to the 1,800 rpm or so and hold it until completely done. This is
>>>> extremely
>>>>> important as you need the pump to do the work.
>>>>> Fill pressure tank while the front bleeder (and bypass) is open until
>>>>> coolant comes out near bubble free.
>>>>> Close front bleeder. Top off pressure tank and install known good
>>>> pressure
>>>>> cap. Now you can allow engine to return to idle.
>>>>> Hopefully this is all done before the temp gauge even begins to move.
>>>>> This should get you to the system will work. Let it run, test that both
>>>>> heaters are getting some flow. Occasionally rev engine a bit, watch
>> temp
>>>>> gauge and check that you get radiator flow. During this reconnect hose
>> to
>>>>> recovery tank and fill.  Ensure radiator fan turn on.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> If this does not work, then next step is to wait for it to completely
>>>> cool
>>>>> down. Do not open pressure and try to continue filling a hot engine. As
>>>> the
>>>>> coolant warms up it will quickly vaporize and trying to fill the system
>>>>> while waiting for the thermostat to open actually effects engine the
>> same
>>>>> as system pressure failure while driving. The thermostat needs coolant
>>>> flow
>>>>> to operate. Without flow it and the temp sensor can only sense steam
>> and
>>>> at
>>>>> that point the engine is being tweaked.
>>>>> 
>>>>> If all is well, over the next few heat-cool cycles the system will
>> purge
>>>>> the remaining air out and refill from the recovery tank. Monitor it as
>> it
>>>>> may need to be refilled. Keep in mind that fresh coolant will also have
>>>>> some entrained air that will also purge out.
>>>>> 
>>>>> As for the choice of parts replacement, 85 was the last year that part
>>>> was
>>>>> used. Do you think used will be reliably better than what you have?
>>>>> Current plastic replacement is probably from old acquired tooling with
>>>>> questionable quality. It should work but!
>>>>> For the aluminum one, someone invested significant time and money to
>>>>> develop that part. If we want entrepreneurs to continue to invest in
>>>>> supporting our vehicles we need to buy their stuff.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Dennis
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of
>> Eric
>>>>> Caron
>>>>> Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2023 9:02 PM
>>>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>>>> Subject: Blam! Bleeder valve destruction
>>>>> 
>>>>> Hi listers,
>>>>> 
>>>>> So, Still working on doing my own radiator change out.
>>>>> 
>>>>> New undamaged one now in the van.  This one is made in South Africa in
>>>>> early 2020 according to the sticker.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I waited for a friend to help with the process of adding in coolant
>> into
>>>>> the reservoir.  He has done this work before.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Unfortunately.  He lost patients when the temp sensor didn’t open and
>> let
>>>>> hot coolant in and decided to open the engine bleeder
>>>>> 
>>>>> This is the bleeder I mentioned was stuck and I decided not to ever
>> turn
>>>>> it.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Well he did, and it would then leak and could not be made to stop
>>>> leaking.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I have some options now.
>>>>> 
>>>>> First, anyone out there got a good used 1.9 bleeder set up?
>>>>> Next, I could get a new plastic one.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I only check GW as the site is pretty easy for me to use, but other
>>>>> venders might have better options.
>>>>> There is a aluminum one there for 221 but I’d like to be a bit more
>>>> budget
>>>>> on this as I don’t expect the 1.9 set up to last more then another 10
>>>> years
>>>>> or so.  After that electric?
>>>>> Another option, my friend took a old 1.9 bleeder and removed the valve
>>>> and
>>>>> inspected the set up.  Two tired o rings.  He suggests we replace the o
>>>>> rings and then exchange this one with mine.
>>>>> 
>>>>> That means just the piece that you open and close and not the entire
>>>>> assembly.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Anyone ever try that before?
>>>>> 
>>>>> This spare valve he will fix is working smoothly but the O rings are
>> hard
>>>>> and broken, very likely like the ones in my current now leaking valve.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thoughts and suggestions?
>>>>> 
>>>>> I know the “best thing is to upgrade everything to 2.1 but that isn’t
>> an
>>>>> option unless I get  a donor for the needed parts.
>>>>> In a way I’m glad he turned the bleeder as it clearly was in bad shape
>>>> and
>>>>> even if not turned was likely to fail.  So maybe best it happened in
>> the
>>>>> garage.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Bleeder thoughts or sources appreciated.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Eric Caron
>>>>> 84 Westfalia
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 
>>