

| Subject: | Re: 1981 Vanagon Clutch Hydraulic Cylinder Replacement |
| From: | Alistair Bell |
| Date: | Mon, 17 Apr 2023 18:14:28 -0700 |
Excellent description. Especially the part where you keep bolts loose until you get hydraulic connection made. That’s the way Ab > On Apr 17, 2023, at 10:48 AM, Geoffrey Toye <geoffreytoye@gmail.com> wrote: > > I’ve just completed the replacement of the master and slave cylinders of my > 1981 Vanagon clutch and thought I would share some notes I made for myself > in case it helps others contemplating the same. > > - Replace both cylinders at the same time. (My slave cylinder started to > leak while bleeding the master). > - Remove the steering column plastic to get access to the master mounting > bolts. > - Master can be changed by kneeling on the floor and reaching up. > - Mounting bolts are 13mm, hydraulic nuts are 12mm, both cylinders. > - Half way through I topped up the reservoir and put cling film under the > cap before screwing it back on. This reduced the drip rate of the fluid > while the hydraulic fittings were disconnected. > - I thought the master cylinder replacement was tricky until I started on > the slave. > - The slave can be replaced by working through the wheel well with the > wheel removed. No need to get under the van. > - You need a 13mm stubby wrench for the rear slave cylinder bolt. > - The rear slave bolt can easily be removed and replaced once the cylinder > is removed. > - Hold the stubby 13mm wrench on the rear slave bolt head using duct tape > or similar. > - Hold the rear slave bolt up in place using a cardboard wedge or similar > under the head while inserting the new cylinder. > - You can put the actuator rod on the clutch lever ball after the slave > cylinder is mounted if the bleed screw is removed. This allows the slave > to be mounted without fighting the return spring. > - For both cylinders, loosely insert the mounting screws and the hydraulic > fitting first, then tighten. This gives wiggle room to start all threads > properly. > - I sprayed penetrating oil on the fasteners the day before the work and > they easily snapped free using regular wrenches. I put copper anti seize on > the threads upon reassembly. > - Gravity bleeding of the system worked just fine, stopping now and then to > actuate the clutch pedal. > - It took me a couple of days to complete, including web searches, coffee > breaks, head scratching and neck stretching routines. If you went at it I > bet it could be done in 4 hours, but that’s not me. I’m just a shade tree > mechanic and take my time. > > Comments and questions are welcome (in case I need to do it again).
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