,etc.). I needed to plug the ports where thery entered the engine. Aside from
getting it through inspection (I'm in MA, so it's not _so_ bad), will this
affect the way my engine runs at all? Also, the linkage where the gas pedal
	Any modification to your intake setup will affect the way your
	engine runs. Mabye better, mabye worse. You should definately plug
	up the holes from the emissions hosework. Also be sure that the jets
	of your carb is set up for the displacement of the engine and the
	exaust you are using. The stock jets will prob. make your bus run
	lean (makes it hotter) because they are usually set up for a
	1600 cc Bug motor. You should call the guys at Weber, or buy
	the Weber book to determine the right jets. They have an ad
	in Hot VW's magazine, usually about 20 pages in. You can
	call them, tell 'em what you got, and they will help you out.
	Good Guys. (Just call them in the morning, West Cost time)
did it identify what model Weber I have ... Does it sound like a progressive?
	If it has two barrels, one BEHIND the other, not side-by-side, then
	it is a Weber Progressive. Also, it should have 32/36 or 32/34 written
	on the side.
four bolts that seem to hold the head on. Are there another four under the
sheetmetal that is directly about the head? Should I removeit and tighted them as well?
	Yup, you are right. Eight nuts in all, and all should have a thick
	washer under them. The other four are above the four you see, and
	require you to drop the engine to tighten them. Dont just tighten the
	four you can see. And when you do, dont go over the torque by even a 
	pound! 
	You may also want to check the valve settings for those cylinders
	(mabye already done), especially after removing the rockers. Air
	hissing is also a symptom of a loose intake manifold, a real engine
	killer. Exaust nuts are usually a good place to check too. When loose
	they make a pfft-pfft-pfft sound.  Loose intake makes a more constant
	hissing sound.
 2. I also just picked up a '72 bus with the camper interior. It was too cheap
to pass up ($200), and parts are hard to come to here in Mass. The compression
	Good score....
on this one is great, but I am yet to get it started. Is tehre a better way to
test for spark at the plugs than by holding them to the block & turning the
engine over (as per Muir manual)? This never really works for me very well -
	Try the center wire held close to the block while someone else turns
	the motor. Even if the timing is WAAAAAAY off, the center wire will still
	make spark, even when the plug wires dont. Use insulated pliers.
	When playing with starting fluid, always be sure to have a fire
	extinguisr around. No Kidding. It can make huge flames jump out
	of tailpipes, carb throats, etc. Try a little (half a shot glass)
	of Gas down the carb throat, choke all the way off, throttle
	at half-way first. That should make it fire at least once or twice
	if any spark is getting to the plugs. If not, check the center wire.
	Is the engine turning easily? Slow engines may not have enough
	juice to fire the plugs, especially with electronic ignition.
	You can fire a regular engine with nine volts, it takes 11.5 to
	fire the electronic ones. Thats cranking volts.

	Good luck with the projects? Are you thinking of merging
	the two vans, or fixing them both seperately?

--- Chris Chubb (cchubb@ida.org)
__________________________________________________________________________
\All opinions expressed or implied may not reflect those of the Institute \
 \for Defense Analyses, the US Government, or anyone else.                 \
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|  -|~(*)/ |  \\//\\//  |FarFromMovin'|   //====--//(_)
| (*) /-'  |   \/  \/   |'71 Bus      |           \\ ^