On Fri, 19 Aug 94 16:15:25 CDT David Carment said:
>To beat a dead horse.... Joel why would either go wacko only when the
>engine is hot?

well, if the thermo time switch was flakey, it would be spraying fuel
(as a choke would do on a carburetor) when the engine was warm enough
NOT to need it.

if it was the coil, it could be just overheating. that's what happened to
my coils (on my 80 bus), but like i said, they just worked fine one second
and didn't work at all the next.

the pressure regulator thingie shouldn't work when cold if it doesn't work
when warm. so i guess we can forget that one. the thought was that when those
things 'die', they can leak the pressure out of the fuel 'loop' and the pump
has to run a bit to pump everything back up. but it would leak down overnight
and so it should be just the same to crank it when cold.

what the heck. replace the coil.  hey! it might also be a cracked distributor
cap/bad rotor. they could heat up and mess things up. also check the points
on that distributor. i had a really wierd thing happen to me on my 80 bus.
the little 'cam-follower' on the points broke and a little 1/16" piece fell
off. as long as i was ove 3000 rpm, the timing was close enough that it
didn't matter, but anything below that was terrible. that was hard to
diagnose, by the way. i don't know what exactly might go wrong in there that
would cause such a problem, but it might be worth a look-see for anything
out of the ordinary or suspicious.

>BTW the fuel mixture was set to richest possible setting with the old
>O2 sensor...DC

yeah, you might want to set it back some. that might even be part of the
starting problem now: too rich.