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>Hi folks, sorry I didn't mean to be mysterious over pulling the pilot 
bearing, or its remains, when talking about clutch problems.
>
>The tranny (or transmission!) has an input shaft, sticks out about 6" from 
the tranny, catches on the clutch, binds on the splines in the clutch etc. 
when you are pulling the engine. One end of this shaft disappears into the 
tranny, the other end skewers the clutch disc, via the splines, and normally 
rests in a 1/2" or so diameter needle bearing that is pressed into the 
centre of the flywheel. This bearing is grease lubricated, once when new, 
and is used every time you push in the clutch when the motor is running. 
Altogether a tough life.
>        When it self destructs, the little rollers, about the size of fine 
spaghetti, bind up. This is a progressive failure, it won't seize 
immediately, but it WILL get worse. Symptoms are identical to a hydraulic 
clutch failure, but applies to cable clutches also. The trick to getting 
mobile is like driving with a broken clutch cable, warm up the engine, shut 
it off, select 1st. gear and startup driving. Parallel parking is a 
challenge, so don't let yourself get parked in. Underway, clutchless shifts 
work, just get the engine / tranny speeds reasonably close and a light 
pressure on the stickshift will get you the next gear when the synchronizers 
are happy. 
>
>                Anyhow, about removal. Drop the tranny, leaving the motor 
in the car. Saves your precious fluids, and is much simpler, no pipes or 
wires, beyond the starter. This requires a GOOD Hazett tool for drive shaft 
bolt removal BTW. Buy it, don't quibble, it's real false economy to skimp 
here! Disconnect the shafts, gearshift linkage, loosen front tranny mount,, 
and with the tranny and engine each supported, remove the 4 flange bolts 
holding the two together. Let the engine and tranny tilt down slightly so 
you can inch the tranny forward, off the input shaft. Don't let the tranny 
dangle on the shaft, a definate NO NO. Lying on your back on a garage 
creeper playing 'human tranny jack' leads to the rapid exhalation of all 
breath in your body, as the tranny weighs about 100 lbs, surprise! Once the 
tranny is out of the way, a good time to inspect/replace any shift link 
bushings and change the fluid, you can sit under your van and admire the 
clutch plate before your remove it. Note the position of the plate relative 
to the flywheel, mark it somehow! Once you get the plate off, the disc 
should be disgarded, unless reasonably new, and replaced with new later. 
Check the pressure palte for major wear on the engagement fingers, this will 
appear as nice shiny areas, and for broken fingers. R+R as needed. The pilot 
bearing is now visible, pressed in flush with the flywheel surface. Pick out 
the rollers/bits and you end up with the bearing shell, really thin and 
really stuck. 
>        Find a washer very slightly smaller the the pilot bearing and grind 
flats on two edges (sides?) so it looks a bit oval, and will slip into the 
bearing. Slip a 4" long 3/16" bolt, through the washer, with a nut and maybe 
smaller washer if needed behind it. Tilt the oval washer, then insert the 
lot into the bearing shell. Toggle the oval washer flat, so it seats behind 
the lip of the shell and proceed to pull/tap the shell out backwards. It 
will come out fairly easily. Look on the lip of the shell you retrieved, and 
the bearing number will be there, faintly. It is a standard bearing, go to a 
decent supplier and get/order another, I paid <$4.00Cdn, vs. $15 @ VW-land. 
Joel, any help from the micro-fiche here?, since it's nicer to get the 
bearing before you start. I pushed it back in by hand, with some light 
tapping with a socket the same size placed backwards on a 6" extension. This 
helps ensure some alignment, don't just pound the thing in! Assembly is the 
reverse of these steps. Don't you just love that phrase in the manuals, he 
he. If you absolutely can't get the bearing shell out, get an acetylene 
torch, with a fine tip, and slag the bugger! It will melt down rapidly, not 
much mass to heat up, while the flywheel stays nice and cool. The usual 
warnings about fire apply here. 
>        Preventative maintenance.... when the engine/tranny is down for 
whatever reason, degrease the pilot bearing with Gunk etc, flush clean with 
H2O until all is sparkly clean and you can look/feel for damage. All being 
well, dry the thing out with a shot of rubbing alcohol, and a gentle 
application of heat, I favor a propane torch, but let the alcohol evaporate 
mostly first. Shove in some hi-temp grease, and FORCE it into the rollers 
with a popsicle stick and your little finger. Make sure it's filled. Clean 
up the input shaft also. Try to keep grease/cleaner/water/dirt off the 
flywheel face, since it's supposed to stick, not slip. I'd be tempted to 
replace this bearing with every new clutch disc, along with the throwout 
bearing, especially if the vehicle has significant miles on it and you want 
many more. It should add little to the labour bill if a shop is doing it, 
likewise for the throwout bearing, which last cost me $60.00 Cdn.
>        Hope this helps,   tim s.
>