Peter Williams writes:
> 
> Some of the tin is very rough (rusty). In fact, it is a real mother getting
> the screws out (screwdriver ...nope... vise grips ...nope...
> chisel...nope... drill).  What is recommended for cleaning up old engine
> tin?

Take it all to a machine shop and have it "hot-tanked".  Then paint it
your favorite shade...

> Not to my suprise, the air pump is frozen solid and the EGR is all clogged
> up.  Disposing of the air pump and associated equipment appears trivial,
> but I am not sure how the EGR system is attached to the heads.  A pretty
> wimpy peice of pipe sticks out of each head near the intake port.  Is it
> possible to remove this and plug the hole?  I expect that a motor tuned to
> run without the aforementioned pollution controls will pollute less than
> with non-functioning pollution controls attached.

Yes, those "pieces of pipe" simply unscrew from the heads.
> 
> I have seen big-bore cylinders advertised for the 1700 (96mm vs 90mm)  are
> these an easy swap, and would there be a noticeable increase  in power
> without replacing the stock Solex's or exhaust?

They are an  easy swap, yes.  If I'm not mistaken, 90mm = 1700cc,
93mm = 1800cc, and 96mm = 1900cc.  I had the latter on my bus when I got
it, and the motor was in sad shape.  Upon examination, I decided that the
1900cc kit had *very* thin cylinder walls - too thin.  So, when I rebuilt
the motor I went with the 1800cc kit (93mm, I think).  I don't know if it
made a difference in power, because It never ran well as a 1.9.  If I
had it to do over again (and I'm sure I will, shortly) I will swap the
internals for 2 liter parts (rods, crank, pistons & liners).  It's a
direct swap, and the extra displacement comes from a longer stroke, not
thinner cylinder walls (I think the 2 liter cylinders are 91mm bore).

-David

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David Schwarze			'73 VW Safare Custom Camper (Da Boat)
SAIC Comsystems, San Diego	'73 Capri GT 2800 (Da Beast)
schwarze@nosc.mil		'87 Mustang Lx 5.0 (Da Bruiser?  Soon...)
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