So Matt Bushore says:
> If you replaced the pads, and still have a bad pedal,
> I would second the guess that your rears need adjusted.

Thanks Matt and Alistair on that one.
> 
> I know that mine do.  If you have a pair of very large
> channel locks, pushing the piston back into the caliper
> shouldn't be very hard.  Just clamp on and squeeze.  
> Use the old pad to protect the piston from damage.

No got channel locks.  :(  Just a the BIG screwdriver (one of the
ten essentials ;) ) and open the bleeder valve a little.  It
was a bear with that too.

> Also make sure that the mounting pins and all other sliding
> points are rust free/clean and to put anti seize on them so
> that everything keeps moving as needed.  This will help
> the pads to wear a bit more evenly.  If the caliper can't float
> for some reason, you usually end up with one pad worn to the metal,
> and other looking brand new.
I confess, I didn't clean the pins, but I've never cleaned them in
the past on other cars.  Didn't make much difference.  VW sez to
replace one of the guide pin holds, I didn't see any reason to.
Maybe next time.

> It has been recommended to replace all of the brake fluid when doing
> a brake job.  I don't do it, but them I'm lazy, and likely won't sue myself
> for my own negligence.  Its to keep water and contaminents from accumulating
> in proportioning valves and the calipers where they can greatly accellerate wear.

Yeah, that's my mentality on this too.  I should do it, but I don't.  Well
I probably will do this one, cause I plan to keep the beast a loooong time.

Steven

sjohnson@pcocd2.intel.com