>Jack Reed's notes on the subject (last month) are excellent.  Unfortunately,
>his information on the likelihood of rust in the trough on the top of the tank
>is also right on:  that's where my leak is -- a pinhole in a field of rust
>about 6 in. in diameter.
>
>I took Jack's recommendation to run the car low on gas perhaps too seriously.
>The car had less than a quart of gas in it when I drained the tank.  Now I
>have to track down a used tank, or see if some brave soul welds gas tanks.
>
>The only change I made in Jack's steps was to use a transmission jack under
>the tank.  Not because the empty tank is heavy -- it's not -- but because the
>jack lets you drop the tank a little, look around, find the connections you
>missed, get a flashlight in there a little, without the worry of a gas tank
>in your lap.
>
>The trough that catches dirt and rusts is for the hot air duct, so if you
>smell gas when your tank is more than half full and the heat is on, you may
>have some seepage and be on the way to my actual leak.  Just another old-
>Vanagon nightmare for you to lie awake about.  Not a problem if you keep the
>tank low, but the gas station guy was wondering why I was in every day for 
>$3 of premium.
>
>Jack, thanks again for the notes that confirmed it's a DIY job.
>B.

I couldn't help but respond. I'm a avid motorcyclist and we always have 
rusty tanks.
One of the shops sells a fix it solution.  The kit contains some acid and a 
polymer which you pour in your tank.  The kit costs around $20, I've never 
had to use one, but I think it would be a good idea to look into.  They say 
this will fix all pinhole leaks and leaves you with a tank that will not rust.
Check around, maybe this is an option.
Chris.