> With that in mind, is this something that can be done 
>one's self, or is that a foolish risk for the average mechanic (I have 
>rebuilt engines, but not this kind, and don't have lots of tools although 
>I can get access to any except specialized VW tools.)

This can be done in the convenience of your favorite garage, preferably one 
with at least a sheet of plywood over the dirt. You don't 'need' to jack up 
the beast, but it helps when undoing the exhaust system. Everything is 
do-able with the engine in the car. The water pump side is harder than 
t'other, due to the really short hose you have to warp into place. Just take 
off everything until the head bolts (17mm) are left. When you slip off the 
head, make sure the barrel stays put, or more work will be needed to reassemble.
        You 'should' replace gaskets on the cylinder liners, but I replaced 
only the offending head gasket ($160Cdn in 1992, now down to $97Cdn at 
dealer). No special tools are needed, but go easy on the exhaust studs, 
breaking ANY of these is a no-no. Go easy on the torque when you re-intall 
the heads, do it gradually and evenly all around the head. Follow Bentley. 
        You'll need a tube of good grade silicone sealer, and you'll need to 
check if the heads are still decent where the gasket sits, corrosion is a 
killer. The silicone sealer will help, but don't expect miracles. I did only 
one side BTW, the other drips so slowly I'm content to check/leave it. Look 
for a deal on the gasket kit, both seals, misc. other gaskets/rings. I'd 
throw in a new water pump at the same time BTW, save labour later. Do the 
passenger side first, if you're doing both. It's more accesible. I did once 
patch my gaskets, they leaked (but much less) after the first fast run, you 
may have better luck with good grade automotive silicone, as I used off the 
hardware store shelf (hi-temp) silicone. Mail me direct if you want a fuller 
discussion of this, I wouldn't do it again, but then, I have a job now. 
Students should not own Vanagon with 100K miles on'em!            tim s.