

| Subject: | Re: Dan H's Heater |
| Date: | Tue, 14 Feb 1995 17:37:30 -0400 |
>SStones re-butts:
>> If it's not air in the system, it could be that your heater core is
>> all plugged up with crud.
>> You really should get full heat at full fan.
>
>Well... My heater core should be free and easy! I boiled it out
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>and flushed it. I disagree with full heat at full fan for 2
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>reasons:
to the above, dammit, well I'll skip, that and save some time.
and... my wifes Wabbit blows very cold air on '3', er... I mean 'Hi'
>Well, I was under that impression. <re: vents to use>
The strategy here is that to keep the windshield clear, and sidewindows
eventually, you want to pump ALL the hot air upwards. You'll get a
circulation loop going, cold air returns, swirling around the backs of your
ankles, pushed alnog by the rear heater also. If you heat the
floormats+snow/slush too soon, the humidity level goes up and you fog the
windows before they're warmed up enough to fight this. Many years in Euro
cars, mostly Peugeots, has proven this to me.
My Honda Civic was the s**ts for this, just a fogbox. It amazes me how many
people drive with only a peephole scraped clear for the side mirror
available. No lateral visibility at all. The van stays clear all around, as
does the Wabbit using this approach. My $0.02, dismount_soapbox(now). tim s.Have something to add on this topic today? Revive this thread in the forum »