>I know for sure that I can't do all 4...I'm a student w/ $5 in checking and
>$20 in savings. Is there anything that I can do to make sure the other 3
>last just until summer? I should have enough $$$$ for it then.

        If the joint is making a slight tick noise while cornering, just 
repack it, using a new boot if torn. It is usually the outer CV that goes, 
and for me it's the curbside one first. If the joint ticks under (hard) 
acceleration going straight, but is quiet when cruising, again repack. If 
it's knocking hard, loud thunks + juddering, then replace it yourself. 
Tedious and filthy job but do-able in a half-day. Get the right tool for 
removing the capscrews, unless they have already been replaced with regular 
Allen head (6 sided hole) screws.
        You (and motor/trans) are not in physical danger if the joint 
breaks, but you won't be able to drive on, you can still roll/tow it. The 
joint will lock up and break, either the cap screws or the cage in the CV joint.
         Complete rebuilt and warranteed axles,( both CVs etc,) for my '87 
Syncro are $141 CDN, (ie $100US) so you should do some checking. It is way 
cheaper to buy a rebuilt axle than to buy a dealer priced single joint and 
do all the labour and end up without a warranty. Same goes for my ex-Honda!
  tim s.