Eugene

I think I found part of the problem.  When putting oil in last week I
noticed that one of the clips that keeps my distributor cap on had come
adrift.  It could have been loose all along.  No more rattling but still
have to get a loan of a timing light.

BTW, do you know if it is true that I should be able to use unleaded petrol?

Thanks

Tracey

> >I have a 72 Kombi.
> >
> >I put an 88 kit through it (barrels and pistons and new heads) what else
> >should be changed???
> >
> >I have a problem with rattles too.  I'm not sure if the tappets (//) need
> >adjusting or judt the timing.  Could it just be timing?  It was lacking
> >power, but I changed the position of the distributor to where I rememberd by
> >sight and it improved heaps.  I suppose I need a timing light to get it
> >exact, but was wondering if that could cause the rattling.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Tracey
> >
> Dear Tracey,
> 
> There are many things that could be wrong here, but I think you should start
> with a thorough valve train check.  Make sure all the pushrods are properly
> seated in their followers within the engine and out at the rocker arms.
> Then go over the valves again very carefully, check for seized, or loose
> rockers, and anything else goofy.
> 
> Yes indeed, get a timing light, or at least a continuity tester so you can
> set and know where it is, very important over the life of your engine.  Was
> this a 1600 engine?  I thought '72 had a type IV.  If it was a 1600 you've
> raised the compression on your engine (with the 88's) and should be using
> premium and may need to retard your timing a pinch or something.  Us desktop
> detectives need more information here.
> 
> Rattles don't sound like they have anything to do with, like a wobbly fan or
> something?
> 
> Didn't forget something deep in the engine like piston pin keepers or
> something, eh?
> 
> Shooting in the dark now,
> 
> Good luck,
> Eugene
> '71 but have had '71 squareback, '63, '65, '67, '75 bug, ....
> 
> 
>