

| Subject: | Repost: Air Leaks |
| From: | Dan Houg |
| Date: | Sat, 17 Jun 1995 08:36:41 CST6CDT |
------- Forwarded Message Follows ------- > Attention to detail. Thoroughness. Persistence. These are > qualities rarely found in dealership mechanics. If you find a > mechanic with those qualities, pay him willingly and cheerfully. As > can be read from many of our posts, we get better service > (sometimes) by checking things out ourselves. Be a geek. Buy books > and read. Talk geek talk with other gearheads. Gawd I love this > list. > > Here's a tip for finding some of those irrascable air leaks in the > intake system, unfortunately, this requires an aircompressor with a > regulated output: > > -pull off the air flow meter at the rubber boot (just loosen the hose > clamp) > -replace airflow meter with a rubber ball to seal the large opening; > if I remember, tennis or raquetballs work > -place nozzle of air gun in just about any vacuum line hose, I use a > piece of small diameter copper tubing on the end of my airgun for > blowing debris and sticking in orfices (shut-up Steve) > -regulate air pressure to a few psi or a little higher, one doesn't > need much > -mix up a soap-water solution and use a soft paintbrush to slather > all over the intake system; air leaks will foam like crazy! listen > for leaks too. > -you may have to rotate the crankshaft soemwhat to get the right > position to seal the combustion chambers > > I've found that the fabric connectors on the maniforld really leak at > the crimp type hose clamps. Replace them with screw type. Also, > breather tubes seem to leak right at the big boot. > >
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