So I get back from my mini-vacation and there's the single-cab 
rolled back out of my neighbor's yard! He'd done the battery tray welding!! 
Even better, he sand-blasted (lightly) the whole engine compartment and 
the awful dark-grey 'trunk paint' that some fool had slathered the engine 
comparment in is now GONE. Its all off-white, just the the exterior.

	The new battery tray was welded-in by bending down tabs
from the un-rusted remains of the old tray and welding those tabs
to the bend-down edge of the new tray. Result is solid- you can pound
on it. But the weld isn't continious, so now I'm wondering how to
seal it up.

	Most obvious choice seems to be to braise all the way
around, filling with brass braising rod. Since I don't have
bright metal on both sides, I'm doubtful about solder as a filler.
The repair pannel is primed and the original metal is in factory paint.
What makes this especially obvious is that I've never braised in my
life and don't know how, but I do know its lower temperature than
welding, since you aren't trying to melt the steel.
	Of course I'd just weld it myself if I had a welder and knew
how to, but the premise of this whole escapade is, unfortunately,
getting someone else to handle the welding because I don't, yet.
As a hacker, can I expect to be able to braise body sheet metal using
a MAAP gas torch? 

	The easiest way to do it would seem to be to prime and then use 
a putty knife to apply bondo or something like that to the gap between
the pannels. Just as a water and air seal- leave the sorta rough bits
of welded metal on the underside as is. Apply the seal from the top. Then
re-prime and paint thoroughly. 

	Back-stop position would be to prime and paint thoroughly
and then seal it with Silicone Seal over the paint.

	Remember that this is a working truck, so ease of work and
durability count most. Someone wanting to do a 100 point restoration
will have to re-do this, but as long as all I want to do is drive,
I should be fine. Particularly since the battery is already relocated
to the other side, so what I really want this pannel to do is
keep dirt and water out.

	Suggestions? 

	Steve Pribyl wonders if glossy or flat black paint for
engine tin.
	The factory used a satin finish. When spray-painting, I
use gloss, since dirt doesn't stick as well. You can get satin finish
black paint too, I've never used it but its probably all right.
Flat and satin will probably pass out just a little more heat than
gloss, so they're probably the best bet. 

	Bill