

| Subject: | Re: rear engine hatch screws & perfect brakes |
| From: | ray hale |
| Date: | Fri, 14 Jul 95 08:38:38 EST |
i just replaced every door on my '66 kombi (except the
engine hatch) and had to beat myself to death and then spend
a few bucks to get the hinge screws out. One is broken and
will remain so. I'm tired of &^@*&% with it! I received 3
separate posts from people on this list who went thru the
same ordeal.
Spray all screwws with liquid wrench, etc and let them sit
for a while.
Use the correct phillips bit (or you'll do much damage) and
a long breaker bar. If you're lucky some will break loose.
For the stubborn ones, spray again and try impact tool.
After hitting hands several times and always questioning if
you've got the impact turned the right way, find a friend
with a compressor and impact gun.
For me, all but 4 came off. I took it to two old german VW
mechanics (one worked in Hitler's Berlin, the other at
Wolfsburg) and let them take care of the remaining 4,
telling them I didn't want to know how they got them off,
just do it! I trust them 100% but knew it might not be
pretty.
I've been told that replacement screws with allen head
instead of phillips were available but haven't found them
yet. Anyone know about these? We have zero
hardware/fastener stores in Gainesville except the chain
stores and I suspect most of you have already found out how
good their stuff is (sarcasm applied liberally).
I do everything possible to avoid the extractor method
because if they're rusted in there this good, it's likely
youll end up with a broken extractor to worry about also.
The seal rails blocking a straight entry to the screws is
the biggest problem! I was hesitant to bend them for proper
angle but I noticed the front doors have a half circle
cutaway at these critical points.
Sorry for the length of this post. Oh yeah, my bus has
great brakes (after replacing all the lines) but dead motor.
:^( does that count? ray g'ville, flHave something to add on this topic today? Revive this thread in the forum »