On Tue, 18 Jul 1995, Rick Gordon wrote:

> Well, I didn't find an easy way through the firewall on that side, so I'm

Sorry, Rick, I don't remember what style bus you're driving. If it's a FI
breadloaf (the only VW I know), then the route I gave you should work. I 
let the sender's wire stick out through the spark plug hole in the tin 
and a slight incision in the rubber spark plug seal. By going up through 
the engine lid, etc., you definitely lose at least 3 ft. of wire.

> Was your experience with the sender ring similar to mine, or did you mount
> it directly on the head somewhere else? (I looked for that alternative but
> couldn't find anything from the top. Maybe I'll look underneath again -
> connecting it from there would shorten it up quite a ways.)

Yes, same experience. I don't think you can bolt it under the temp. 
sender for the fuel injection, unless you remove a lot of tin, which is 
only practical if the engine is out. Be careful when you torque in the 
spark plug. Too much torque will tear the sender ring; it's soft metal.

> That's encouraging. I'm using heavier gauge wire anyway (16 AWG) so I'm
> introducing all sorts of variables into it!

My feeling (and nothing more) is that 16 AWG is too thin. If you really 
need to add some wire (which I don't believe), then you may want to use 
really thick wire (10 AWG) and make good connections to minimize 
resistance. But, in the end, the readings are just a relative thing anyway...

Good luck!

Sami ('75 Westf.)
dakhlia@wuecona.wustl.edu
http://wuecon.wustl.edu/~samid/