Apologies to the list, a member posted for info on lead work, lost their address

taken from Haynes manual: Porsche 911 - Guide to Purchase and DIY Restoration

only 4 pages, so don't buy it for this stuff alone.

1) preparation: electric drill etc + wire wheels, sandpaper, get the surface 
CLEAN and SHINEY, then wipe down thoroughly with Methylated Spirits. Do not 
touch with fingers etc after this step.

2) tin the surface using tinmans solder, 60% lead/40% tin, using a torch.
Apply some flux, heat up the surface, apply the solder and wipe over/into 
area to be leaded using a cloth coated with flux. Get a thin shiney coat of 
solder over all areas to be filled. Catch the drips in a spill tray. If this 
is done poorly the next step won't 'take'!

3) fill the surface using bodymans solder, 70% lead 30%tin, get a semi soft 
blob onto the surface and work it into areas needing fill using a flux 
coated wooden paddle and the torch to aid/control flow. catch the drips, but 
don't mix up the solders!

4) grind/Surform/sand smooth, as with normal bondo

5) skim with bondo to fill in pits etc. (just no escaping bondo!)

6) finish as usual..... have fun

The authors indicated no major benefits of lead over bondo, aside from the 
purist restoration concept. Porsche use(d?) lead in rocker and rear 
fender/body areas. Indicated that seams are as likely to rust, but the lead 
flexes better, therefor less likely to crack out. This might be the way to 
fix those damned vanagon body seams, mine are visibly cracked/rusting. Usual 
warning about lead and your diet, small children etc. tim s.