My system's a bit flaky today, so I don't know if my original post got
through regarding the dash lights going out.  Anyway, to answer my own
question: RTFM!

The fuse panel on the vanagon has a long row of about 16 fuses.  I checked
them all and they were ok.  When I got home, I consulted Bentley and found
that there's one more fuse located above the relays.  Its out of view and
easy to miss.  This is the fuse for all the little interior lights that
go on when the headlights are on.  The fuse was blown.

Tom