Thanks to all those who reponded to my "no start" post yesterday.  While
that problem is still unresolved, several people were interested in the old
'hot engine - no start' problem that I said I had fixed with a with a second
solenoid.  

I sure can't take any credit here.  This proceedure is covered in Muir and I
am reposting a description which originally was put up by Jack Reed.  Hope
you don't mind Jack.  It's in the archives, but sometimes people have
trouble finding things.  I used this description and no more problem....at
least not that problem.  Thanks Jack!

>I'd suggest you read this all the way through before you lay finger to 
>van to familiarize yourself with what you'll need in the way of parts and 
>the general flow of the work.  It's not that it's all that complicated, 
>it's just that my stream of consciousness style of writing isn't meant to 
>be an instruction manual but more of a general information guide to the 
>task at hand.  Plus it's a lot less daunting once you've got a picture of 
>the job in your mind.
>
>Basically what you're going to do by installing a relay prior to the 
>starter solenoid is to create an amperage amplifier.  The wire from the 
>ignition switch that normally runs to the solenoid will instead be used 
>to dump voltage/amperage that's very near to the battery's full potential 
>directly to the solenoid.  The reason that you'll be doing this is 
>because the wiring, connectors, etc. between the ignition switch and the 
>solenoid have degraded due to corrosion and resistive build up to the 
>point that not enough current gets to the solenoid to fire it when the 
>starter is hot.  In some extreme cases you won't be able to turn the 
>engine over even when it's cold.
>
>The solenoid itself can be gotten from Checker (or its equivalent) for 
>around $5US.  Just ask for a generic Ford truck solenoid.  It should come 
>in one of two configurations, either a cross, with the two fat terminals 
>(outputs) in one plane and two smaller terminals (inputs) in the other plane.
>Or the two output terminals are in one plane and the two input terminals 
>are on one side of the output terminal plane.  If you're not sure what's 
>what ask the counterman (or woman, as the case may be).
>
>I'm going to preface the rest of us this by saying that since this is a 
>generic document, if things aren't exactly the way I describe on your 
>vehicle, don't panic, I'm just describing my setup and yours may vary 
>from it.  If you can't figure it out ask the list or write me direct for 
>advice.
>
>Before you start doing anything at all back by the starter, I'd suggest 
>that you disconnect the negative battery lead and lay it to the side of 
>the battery.  That way you won't accidently fire the starter, get your 
>hair, shirt, whatever, stuck in the pulley, get your face ripped off and 
>your wife, girlfriend, whoever won't sue me for a bazillion dollars for 
>not warning you about this in the first place.  If you don't know enough 
>to disconnect the electrical system when working on the starter, 
>alternator, etc., I'm not sure you should attempt this in the first place.
>Read the Idiot's Guide for a good primer on basic safety techniques.
>
>
>Find an appropriate place to mount the solenoid by the starter.  If the 
>only place to attach it is to the starter itself, make sure that it's a 
>ground point and that vibration won't somehow cause the solenoid to come 
>in contact with a hot lead (positive 12 volts), usually a red wire.  But 
>not always, so check with a voltmeter if unsure of the wire's polarity.
>
>Remove the wire from the spade clip on the end of the solenoid and attach 
>one of the post type connectors that you picked up at the same time you 
>bought the solenoid.  Forgot 'em?  Better go buy some and take the 
>solenoid with you to make sure they're the right size.  The old wrap the 
>wire around the post and tighten the nut trick won't work if you want 
>this to be a trouble-free installation.  Pick up a few feet of battery 
>cable and a crimping tool while you're there.  Read on for the rest of 
>the parts list.
>
>Attach the ignition wire (the one you just removed from the solenoid) 
>to one of the input terminals, it doesn't matter which one.  Then run a 
>new wire, preferably a black or brown one, to a ground point on the body 
>from the other input terminal.  Once you're sure that everything's tight, 
>run a fat (8-12 guage, whatever you have) cable from a direct battery 
>connection to one of the fat terminals.  I used the battery connection at 
>the starter, you can do the same.  Then run another new line (also ~10 
>gauge) from the other fat terminal to the exposed spade clip that the 
>original ignition wire went to.  You can use the original connector, so 
>long as you didn't cut if off too short and you can use an electrical splice 
>to connect the two ends.
>
>Several things to make sure of:
>Make sure that all connectors, posts, are clean and bright.  Polish them 
>with emery cloth if they're not.  Make sure that all your crimp 
>connections are tight by trying (a bit more than half-heartedly) to pull 
>them apart.  Redo the connection if they are rent (asunder, that is).  
>Make sure that all screw/nut connections (like the hot lead on the 
>solenoid) are nice and tight as well.
>
>If you're not sure which of the wires to the solenoid is the one from the 
>ignition switch, put a volt meter in line between the wire you think is 
>the correct one and ground.  With the volt meter on the Volts setting, 
>have handy friend temporarily reattach the positive lead to the battery 
>and turn the ignition key to the start position.  If you get 
>approximately battery voltage, you know you've got the right one.  Make 
>sure handy friend removes the battery cable before proceeding.
>
>
>I did this to my Rabbit and van about two years ago after experiencing 
>more and more degradation of the starting system and have had 0 problems 
>since.  I used a Bosch fog light relay on the Rabbit in lieu of the big 
>Ford solenoid since I didn't think it was necessary (and because I had a 
>spare one).
>
>Take your time, don't cut your wires until you're sure they're the right 
>size and you should have a nice, neat installation.  Use cable ties to 
>keep possibly errant wires out of the way of spinning, moving things and 
>to prevent them from rubbing against sharp metal edges and shorting out 
>the whole works at midnight in a blizzard after a bachelor party.  Hell, 
>you shouldn't be driving then anyway, go crawl in the back and go to sleep.
>;)
>
>Jack
>
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<<>>  Don Geiger                <<>>
<<>>  dgeiger@k2nesoft.com      <<>> 
<<>>  '80 Westy in NJ           <<>>
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