

| Subject: | Re: Stroking a type 4 |
| From: | Scott Morrow |
| Date: | Mon, 15 Apr 1996 06:29:32 -0500 |
At 12:03 AM 4/15/96 -0500, you wrote: >I just acquired this nice looking '72 bus and somewhere inside in >boxes are remains of a type 4 . If nothing else I'm an optimist. >The engine was in the process of throwing the #3 rod when they shut >her down. The rod is in one piece but twisted . The bearing surface >on the crank is a dark blue. The journals in case look good just eye- >balled. One of the flanges has been broken off around one bolt hole, >as tho they removed it with the bolt still in there. Piece is gone so >I'll have to fab and weld back in. > My plan is to get as much low end torque as I possibly can, so we're >talking stroke here right? How much can you do one of these lovelies? > I towed it home with a Corvair Van on a 3 foot tow bar. > The 140 hp in the van was nice, the three ft tow bar was the worst >mistake I've made and not paid for in a long time. Stroker cranks are available in about any stroke you want similiar to the type I. But be careful with the stroke because if you are using stock rods, then the rod angle will be increased. Are you going to stay with the stock size pistons and cylinders? Aftermarket pistons and cylinders are very pricey. You can buy 96mm pistons and cylinders for about $300, then buy a 78mm crank, and that would be a nice 2258cc stump puller! Most people tell me to stay away from Bernie Bergman's cranks. I havn't tried one, but they say the quality is very poor. Pauter machine has good cranks, and so does Scat. Berg has awsome cranks, but who can afford them? Anyway, hope this helps. See ya Scott Morrow Kansas City, MO 67 Chopped Drag Bug 74 412 Wagon Fiberglass Buggy smorrow@gbutler.com
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