So what happened with the guy in Oz who got three
different results from three consecutive valve adjustments? 
	Were you not setting valves with stone cold engine? 
	Were you turning the engine in half-turns BACKWARDS
(EG 1-2-3-4) or FOREWARDS (1-4-3-2 like it says on the generator stand)
(Backwards is correct if you're setting valves in sequential order!)
	Were any of the valves many turns too tight? This is usually
a hint that the cam and the rest of the engine aren't where you think
they are...

	For the fella who wants to run his engine on a toggle
switch- I have a toggle switch and pushbutton rig in my '70, done
by the DPO. The toggle switch connects 12V DC to everything that
once came from the key-switch, except for the starter solenoid.
The starter solenoid is controlled by the pushbutton.
	So my headlights stay on when the toggle is ON, like an
American car. :(
	To do this, you only need to locate +12V and the starter wire
since everything else will be hooked together.

	For late model T2 with FI, this will mean the fuel injection
pump will run constantly before you start- this always made me
nervious in my Rabbit and it another good reason to replace the
bad switch and do the job 'right'.

	If your friend wants to play astronaut, they can have a toggle
for each of the (4? 8?) switch poles in the ignition switch. Fixing the
original switch would probably be less work and look nicer though.
	
	The wiring diagram will show you that the ignition switch controls
1) Ignition (12V to the coil)
2) Headlights (in series with headlight switch)
3) Tail and side lights (in series with headlight switch)
4) Accessories- radio, defroster, heater fan, blah blah blah
5) Starter (12V to solenoid)
6) Fuel Injection pump relay (if applicable)
and possibly more.

	Happy Motoring!
	Bill