On Fri, 17 May 1996, H Steven Dolan wrote:
> Bill Crick wrote:
> >Volks: My Haynes Manual says to adjust the valves, on my van, the wheels need
> >      to be removed. Is this true? I'd rather not if it isn't needed, 
> 
> The only caution is that the bail *must* be flipped in the
> correct direction. If you flip it the wrong way, the cover won't come off
> and the bail is a bear to get back on.  I am 90% sure the correct direction
> is up, but it has been too long. Am I right on this?

I flip the bail down, but it doesn't really matter, since it you do get 
stuck just remove the bail by popping it out of the hole it sits in at he 
fore and aft ends of the head.  No prob.

And, no, don't remove the wheels.  That's silly.

> >   Second question will I need any special tools above Open/box wrenches,
> >  feelers, srewdrviers etc? If so what?

You will need:
    - new valve cover gaskets
    - sealant for the gasket if you like (apply *only* to the valve 
      cover side!)
    - Medium sized flat head screwdriver to pull the bail off
    - short (3" or so) 3/8" drive socket extension (as leverage to help 
      get bail back on--a trick David Schwarze showed me)
    - small flathead screwdriver to actually turn the adjusting screws
    - 14 mm box-end wrench to do the locknuts
    - 0.006" and 0.008" feeler gauges (set valves to 0.006" intake and 
      exhaust on the 1976 2.0L engine)
    - rags to clean as you go.

If this is your first time adjusting the valves, check that the fan 
pulley is marked *opposite* the timing mark so you can set cylinders 2 
and 4 to TDC easily and accurately.  If not, get some white paint and dab 
it on in the correct spot.  Measure accurately: Muir has a good 
description of how to do this.

I'm assuming you have solid lifters otherwise you wouldn't be asking.  
Solid lifters were stock, but a DPO could have installed hydraulics at 
some point.

Tobin
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Tobin T. Copley              VW Busses to Inuvik!        =============  
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