(chomp)...
>>Expansion tank was full.
>
>The expansion tank is behind the license plate, and should have some coolant
>in it always.  Main tank, under the deck lid, was full?  Try revving it up
>by hand and watch the main tank.  If you see the level suck way down you
>have a big air bubble up front in the rad/heater core.  Gets collapsed when
>the pump is revved up and generates some pressure.  If the level gets low
>enough it sucks air, doesn't circulate coolant and does the Chernobyl
>bake-off pronto.  Another easy check is to turn on front heat full and fan
>on 2.  If the defroster air is way cooler than floor air you have a bubble.
>Bleed the system like Bentley says. Then monitor coolant levels carefully
>for a couple of weeks.  If it air-bubbles again fast, start saving your
>money up. :(  Tim Smith

finally got around to looking closer (post baby birthing excitement delayed
things).

you're right, the expansion tank was empty and the main tank was full.

the main tank sucks down about an inch when i rev it.  expansion tank
levels have held good for the last week/200 miles.

will do the bleeding exercise.  but have to replace the rear bleeder/hose
coupling -- the bleeder portion melted down during the December engine
fire.

Question:  i've got a Stant radiator pressure test set.  How/where would
one hook this up on a waterboxer?  Looks like Bentley shows one in use on
the (rear) main tank, but, that tank's a threaded fitting and the stant
setup only has the classic radiator notched fitting.

Is there an stant/vw threaded adaptor out there, should i being doing this
up front on the radiator, not at all, or...?

mondo gracias,
dwight

"pray for surf. it's good for the soul."