So thorsland@bigvax.alfred.edu says:
> 
> 1.  Do I need to have any work performed on the right head while I am working
> on the left one or can I just leave it alone since the compression was good.

Take both in and have them both checked out by the machinist/technician

> 2.  Should I throw in new rings all around?

Might as well while you have it torn apart.  They aren't expensive.

> 3.  How do I tell if the gas tank is rusty?  I suppose cutting open the fuel
> filter is a good start.

Unscrew the drain plug and see if any brownish/redish colored material comes
out.  If it does, you have rust.

> 4.  How difficult is it to pull the gas tank out?  My bus is a '77 2L FI westy.

Not too bad with the engine out.  Just some screws for the cover panel and
some bolts for the tank plus the sender connection.

> 5.  The heat exchangers are in pretty bad shape but the muffler and pipes seem
> OK, is there a way to prolong the exhistance of the muffler (ie. Paint, 
> treatment)?

Don't know this one too well, but I'd start saving for a new muffler and
heat exchangers.

> 6.  It seems like it should be fairly easy to put the exhaust back on whilt
> the engine is in the bus.  Is this true?  (remember '77 FI 2L westy).

That's how I'd do it.  It's just to hard for me to manuver the engine with
all of that excess weight.

> 7.  What is the best method for cleaning grease/oil/dirt from the cooling tin.
> How about the partially disassembled engine block?

Go to one of those bay car washes and spray your tin with degreaser.  Let it
soak for a few minutes and spray it off with the sprayer real good.  Take
it home and detail clean the rest.  Simple Green worked pretty good for
me.

Steven 
Sacramento, CA
sjohnson@pcocd2.intel.com