"michael.r.robison" <michael.r.robison@arthurandersen.com> writes:
>Once we got it going, we drove it around the block and home.  Turned the engine
>off and then tried to start it immediately.  Nothing but 'click click'.  So, we
>tried to jump start it to see if perhaps the battery was the problem.  And it
>started.  But the battery had just been recharged so I can't understand how it
>was so easily killed, if that is indeed what happened.  (it's a cheapo KMart
>battery).
>
>So, should I buy a new, more powerful battery to solve the problem or is it
>more likely a wiring problem or is the starter overheating and not starting or
>is it something else?  Argh.
>
I think Muir has a pretty good procedure for diagnosing starting problems like
this.  It could be your battery has a dead cell and won't hold a charge, or
there's a voltage drop between the ingition switch and solenoid.

>Problem II.  The engine does not feel as powerful as before (we did a minor
>rebuild, new pushrod tubes, adjusted valves, etc).   Seems to be running better
>than ever while idling.  Unfortunately, the bus doesn't accelerate as quickly
>and feels like it's straining more uphill.  Could this be a compression
>problem, does it need new plugs (no we didn't replace them), what?
>
I'd check "obvious" problems first, like point and plug gap, timing, loose
plug wires, and vacuum leaks (by carefully spraying Gumout around manifold
joints and base of carb. with engine running - change in RPM = vacuum leak).
When you did a minor rebuild, what did you do?  If you installed "head gaskets"
(sealing rings) where none existed before, that would have lowered compression
some.  Is the throttle linkage adjusted okay?  Ie. when you press the pedal
all the way down, does it fully open the throttle plate?

Pat Walsh, '71 Westy, walshp@camry.nawc-ad-indy.navy.mil