David Easterwood wrote:
> 
> >The feed to your lights does not go through the ignition switch.
> 
> >3. The smaller wire from step 2 goes to term #30 on the light switch. This line is
> >not fused and should be hot all the time.
> 
> >4. The wire to term. #30 in step 3 feeds through to term #30 on the starter
> >switch.
> 
> Check your wiring diagram.  Where does the *POWER* come from and go to the
> ignition switch?  Line 30 goes from the positive connection on the starter (always
> hot) to the #8 fuse block top connector.  From there it is bridged (does not pass
> through the fuse) and goes to the 30 connector on the headlight switch.  From that
> connector it is bridged and goes to the 30 connector on the ignition switch.

I thought that was what I wrote???????

 
> Ignition Switch
> 15 - Positive Power to the Ignition Coil when switch is in the ON position
> 30 - Positive Power Input
> 50 - Momentary Switch for Positive Power to the Starter Solenoid
> 
> I stand by my statement that the most probable cause for your problem stems
> from your headlight switch.

Power to the ignition does not go *through* the light switch. Why would he lose power 
to the ignition when he does not use the lights???? If I read the first post correct (I 
may have missed something :>)) I thought the problem happened even with the lights off. 
If the engine died *only* when the lights were turned on, then I would agree with you 
without question. But...if his light switch was *SHORTING OUT*, his harness would 
burn-up being unfused. All the post reported was the engine dying.

Since it is easier IMHO to check a connection then change an ignition switch, I would 
run through everything else first!

 
> Dave
> 
> P.S. Not a flame, hopefully a clarification! :)

Taken as good ideas! :>)

Douglas