OK, it's time for decapitation.  After 7 months of driving around with a 
complete Westy top held on with 4 sheet metal screws and a cinch strap I've 
started the proper installation.  Err...  make that two sheet metal screws a 
cinch strap, after closer examination, musta lost two.  Good thing the 
pop-top fits well and is heavy.

1) Roof rack:   Done 7 months ago, probably why I didn't go topless on the 
road! I sliced the headliner about 4" rear of the front roof beam, leaving 
enough to tuck up and finish the roof cutout with. The rear bolt holes need 
to be drilled and bolts dropped through. Slicing the headliner lets you do 
this. You may be able to peel back from windshield, but why since the cutout 
is inevitable.  Goop them watertight when finished. Use the rack for the 
drill guides.
        The front anchors take some fiddling, I put double sided tape on the 
bottom of them, bolted the VERY loosely to the rack and carefull set the 
rack down on the roof. If happy the take out the bolts and lift off the 
rack, hopefully the anchor brackets have stuck to the roof in the right 
position. Drill through.  I peeled back headliner above windshield for 
access. Remove sunvisors. Went back together fine.

2)  Rear hinges:  easy to do!  I took two 12"x1"x3/16" steel bars and 
drilled/tapped three 8mm holes in each, at the spacing of the hinge 'foot' 
on the lid.  This was then painted and a layer of bicycle tube rubber 
contact cemented over it.  This give a bit of cushioning and fills gaps 
between slightly curved roof and flat bar.  I also used a grinder to radius 
the top side edges of the bar to avoid crunching sharp corners into the 
roof.  This was done prior to rubber layer!  DO NOT use thicker steel for 
the bar, there is not enough room to slip it in between roof panel and inner 
roof 'frame'.  3/16" also bends enough into the roof contour, 1/4" wouldn't.
        Fitting them into the roof required stripping down the headliner and 
hatch rubber about 8", until I could get some access.  Remove rear speakers 
or whatever. By putting a bolt 'upside down' into the forward threaded hole 
I was able to guide the bar into and over to the rearmost 7/16" hole drilled 
in the roof. Get the measurements for these holes from the donor Westy after 
you pull the roof.  And drill all six holes before you lift up the roof!! 
Measure 5 times, drill once!!  A bolt+washer went through the hinge foot and 
roof and into threaded plate. Once it's captured from outside remove the 
other inside bolt and swivel the plate into position under the other holes, 
then bolt down.  Do the other side :).  The 7/16" roof holes plus the slots 
in the hinge foot allow for some adjustment of closure into the roof rack.  
Not a lot! Get the overlap correct/aligned, then goop the bolts well ONE AT 
A TIME!  That inside rubber layer is also a seal, but don't take the chance 
that it will leak. Headliner easy to refit, just don't tear or stretch it 
too much.

3)  canvas anchor strip:  I installed this without canvas first. Lay the 
pieces on the roof and hold down with duct tape. It sits about 1" up from 
the ends of the roof 'beams' stamped in the roof panel, you'll see. Use the 
aluminium strip as a drill guide.  I did front strip first, then positioned 
rear strip and sides. Drill and screw as you go, take your time.  Drill size 
was 3/32" for the ten trillion little screws.  I haven't installed the 
canvas yet, need some putty to seal up near side of each roof beam. This was 
also quite easy, but measure/tape down well and check while you go.

This is progress to date, the roof was held fully open with a 2"x4" and big 
2x6 on roof to spread the load.

Next:  Lifter bar/front hinge.  This will be a pain! It doesn't fit unless 
the roof cutout is done EXACTLY as the factory Westy. I am planning on doing 
this but need to cut roof, fold down edges and attach a reinforcing beam 
around the perimeter. Yah, right :(. I have to measure up a friends Westy to 
make this work.  The front hold-down latch bolts through the roof with 4 
holes.  I need to double up the roof with a backer plate in that area, 
simple enough.
    Bed will be fun too.  Factory Westy roof is cutout/stamped to rear hatch 
almost and bedboard forms inner roof.  I am only cutting back to middle roof 
beam. My rear 1/3 headliner stays intact, while the standing area is same as 
factory.  Consequently the rear portion of the bed is sitting about 5" 
higher than it normally would.  Front folding part however will be at 
'factory' height like front hinge. Much thought/futzing required here, 
especially since the bed hinging won't work/clear the poptop.  Will post as 
I go.

  On the plus side, just found a 38"x24" escape hatch from an RV. Tinted and 
tempered glass, black aluminium frame. Needs the escape latches converting 
to pop/lock type, but gets me a huge sunroof that opens/removes, "On Safari" 
style.  My poptop didn't have the roof vent, cheapo's are $40+tx (@ Delta-6 
$395US!!) and the hatch is $75 (used, no tx.) so a great deal.  Need a 
flyscreen/shade too. Later folks, Tim.

Tim Smith
'87 Syncro 'Wasted'