

| Subject: | Re: 83 Sink's 12V water pump |
| From: | Shawn Wright |
| Date: | Fri, 5 Jul 1996 11:36:56 PDT |
On 5 Jul 96 at 8:02, john wakefield wrote: > Yesterday I decided to improve the recently slowed delivery of water > coming from my '83 Westie's sink spigot, so I pulled the pump. After > much agitation by shaking it along its shaft while it was running and > hearing lots of micro grinding noises, it was spinning much faster, but > just before I was about to quit satisfied, it demonstrated its > dissatisfaction by quiting. The motor is now electrically open, so I'd > say it's "toast." > If someone knows of a device that also uses this standard appearing 12V > DC electric motor, that would be nice information. > Also, in what interchangable years were these little submergable pumps > used? > Is there an inexpensive alternate source for acceptable replacements > beside the maximally priced VW dealership? > If others have found nice little two speed replacements, that would be > a fine improvement. > You say your '83 has the submersible type? Interesting... The '83 which I almost bought last year had the pump mounted in the 'secret' compartment in the bottom of the kitchen cabinet. It looked factory to me - maybe it wasn't. Anyway, I used this method to replace my pump which failed the same way as yours. A $25 RV sink pump mounted nicely in this compartment, insulated with a few foam pieces to keep it from rattling too much. Flow rate is not bad, better than the dying pump I had, but still takes about 45-60 seconds to fill the kettle. (heck, if I'm rushing when camping, there's *something* wrong!) One main problem with this: Since the water line comes through the top of the tank, the pump will lose its prime if the tank is emptied, or near empty and driving up *steep* hills (as I often do...). I've gotten used to mouth-priming the pump - no big deal. The RV place I got the pump at sold a 3/8" check valve to fix this - I skipped it since I thought I had one already. The white thingy under the sink is just a coupler - not a valve. Another solution would be the more expensive self priming pump, but it was about $80... ps: I left stock wiring in place so I could go back to the old pump type - just disconnected the 4 prong connector under the sink for power from the faucet, then ran a ground wire to a cabinet mounting screw. pps: You'll also need about 2-3' of 3/8" tubing to extend the lines to the pump, and lengthen the feed line in the tank. Shawn '88 Westy 331k (Kyra) '85 Jetta TD 349k (Jenni)
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