Mark--

Here's one of your answers anyway, yes the bleed screw is easily
accessible once you remove the top grill.  It's on the passenger side of
the radiator up on top.  Just need something small to turn it with
because the space is a little tight (not bad, just a little).  I have
read that raising the front end helps, but can't confirm this.  I'd
suggest a faster RPM, somewhere around 3000.  And, finally, don't forget
to turn the heater on.  You need to make sure that the engine gets hot
enough to get it off of closed loop.

As far as the headlights are concerned, yes you'll have to remove the
upper grill but that's not the whole story (actually, I'm not sure that
you have to, but it sure does make it easier).  After you do that,
there's four more screws holding the headlight assembly--look carefully
because there are also some screws that take care of it's alignment (you
don't want to fool with those).  Both square headlights are connected
onto each side's assembly.  The screws you want (if memory serves, it's
been a while) are way near the top and bottom.  Once you have the whole
thing undone, gently pull it out until you can reach the back of the
bulb you want to replace.  I've always found it easiest to swing the
headlights towards the middle of the car (so they're facing in, not
out).  The wires seem to like going that direction and give me more room
to work.  By the way, the ones that hold the alignment are actually a
cheap VW part when they need replacing.  They use a little plastic gizmo
type anchor that will break with age.  Replacements are only a couple
bucks at the dealer.

Hope this helps,
Tonya
87 Vanagon GL Wolfs
74 S. Beetle