Tim;
The notes I wrote in my book after i did this test on the gas gauge with
a resistor decade box are as follows:

Gauge reads full : input resistance=210 ohms 
Gauge reads empty: input resistance=35 ohms
The 510 on their gauge corresponds to 340 ohms

Good Luck
Ken Lewis
kdlewis@juno.com
86 VW crewcab
85 VW Vanagon GL
60 356 coupe
 
On Tue, 17 Dec 1996 16:49:37 -0600 smitht@unb.ca (Tim Smith) writes:
>OK, for you technoids out there... anyone got VW1301 tool, seems to be 
>a
>variable resistor that you connect instead of the gauge you are 
>checking.
>What I want to know is what are the resistance values (ohms) that this 
>thing
>puts out at settings of:
>
>        50 - gas tank full / temp gauge at lower edge of red
>        320 - gas tank empty
>        510 - temp gauge at lower edge of white 
>
>and any other settings that might be useful???
>
>Now... why?  because after sticking in a new temp (gauge) sender I get 
>the
>same reading as the old when running AND yes the voltage stabilizer is 
>spot
>on for output, at 10.5v, checked that first, then blew the $21+4tax on 
>a
>sensor, grrrr...  ?? Bad ground straps??
>
>Final questions, 
>
>1) voltage at battery is 14.5 when running, 12.5 when off.  A-OK.  
>Voltage
>at stabilizer is 13.5v running but floats +/- 0.5 volts when idling 
>(fine at
>1500RPM).  So why the floating? bad brushes? (belt fine/tight), out of 
>round
>pulley?  Gremlins?
>2) the 1.0 volt drop is a pain, anyone run a new 'power' line to the 
>fuse
>panel or somehow got rid of this drop.  I don't want to just upgrade 
>the
>headlamp wiring with a new feed, what about new feed to entire 
>dash/front
>area??  Ideas?
>
>Thanks folks, bye, tim
>
>