-- [ From:  * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] --

Listees,

This is a long message with information garnered as a result of posts=
 on
this and other lists, including rec.travel.latin-america, and the Sou=
th
American Explorers Club list.  My wife and I have been planning a tri=
p to
the Tip of Argentina destination such as proposed by Martha.  All was
proceeding well until the announcement that the Crucero Express, the =
ferry
between Panama and Colombia had ceased operation in about September.

With the demise of the ferry, Darien Gap-crossing expenses soar.

FYI, we're ready to go as soon as we can figure out how to traverse t=
he
Darien Gap. One solution would be to negotiate a group rate for a num=
ber of
Vanagons with a recommended carrier out of Panama City, Panama.

I have two additional information-laden and reality-inducing messages=
 which
I have filed. Iif anyone, or the entire list, would like to have them=
, let
me know.

Tom Hanlon
Palm Springs, CA

------- FORWARD, Original message follows -------

Date: Thursday, 06-Feb-97 12:23 PM

=46rom: Barbara Sutton           \ Internet:   =20
(bsutton@gladstone.uoregon.edu)
To:   Thomas D. Hanlon         \ Internet:    (hanran.inc@internetmci=
.com)

Subject: [Fwd: [Fwd: Re: My new '91 Westie]]

Barbara Sutton wrote:
>=20
> Thomas D. Hanlon wrote:
> >
> > -- [ From:  * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] --
> >
> > Chris,
> >
> > I enjoyed your note to the Vanagon list.
> >
> > We've been planning a similar trip to South America my wife, Aura=
 Nell
and
> > I , with 84 Westy and two old Dachshunds. I have most of the prob=
lems
> > resolved, including parts "reserves" in the States, likely necess=
ary
spare
> > parts to carry, and information on insurances, dog visas, and oth=
er
similar,
> > , estimable subjects.
> >
> > What I am lacking is the information about crossing the Darien Ga=
p and
on
> > the Latin America equivalent to the carnet de passage.
> >
> > We are mature folks in a two-wheeled drive van, so the option of =
an
> > overland route is excluded from our thinking.  The Crucero Expres=
s, the
> > ferry between Panama and Colombia has ceased service.  Another op=
tion
is to
> > ship the vehicle via freighter, specifically recommended was the
Nordana
> > Line.  Tarriff is steep @ $60.00 US per cubic metre. A Listee
calculated
> > the vanagon at about 18 cubic metres in volume. The passengers th=
en
have to
> > fly at another $400.00, or so.  Instead of a $600 trans-Darien Ga=
p
> > experience, the investment begins to compare to the US Budget Def=
icit.
> >
> > The carnet de passage is a document issued by the Canadian Automo=
bile
Club
> > which lubricates passage of vehicles in Europe and in Asia. The T=
exas
AAA
> > gave me the application forms, but the carnet is invalid, or not
recognized
> > by authorities in Central and South America.  I am told there is =
a
similar
> > document titled "la libreta" which is the cross the border withou=
t
bonds,
> > bribes, and delays etc., recognized by the authorities in those L=
atin
> > nations.  Are you aware of that document and how to acquire one?
> >
> > Re the "Folder," somewhere in your e-mail software I'm told, ther=
e is a
> > capability to create a file folder for mail from a specific addre=
ss.=20
When
> > you figure that out, let me know. I'm a technoboobie.
> >
> > We reside in Texas, maintain a home in Palm Springs, and we would=
 like
to
> > consider a caravan with nice folks.  We're post-50s folks and wid=
ely
> > travelled.  We'd prefer a east cost Mexico route to depart  from =
Texas
and
> > a Pacific route to return to California.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Tom Hanlon
> > Palm Springs, CA.
> Well, I am not sure where to start...I guess I'll pass the info as =
it
> occurs to me.
> A very important issue, many times underestimated, is a decent know=
ledge
> of the spanish language. Without it, your trip will loose about 80%=
 of
> its enjoyment potential, and I am not exaggerating. It is essential=
 to
> speak the language when crossing borders, asking for directions (th=
ere
> is a lot of this), as a tool to prevent or minimize bribe situation=
s,
> (Police, border "authorities", etc) when communicating with a mecha=
nic,
> and in the event of an emergency.
> About the Darien Gap: At the time I did it (1992), there were no re=
gular
> scheduled ferries from Colon (Panama) to Venezuela or Colombia. It =
was
> just a matter of waiting in the dockyard, talk to people and get in=
 a
> boat. We had bad luck with this, and after almost a month in Panama
> City, decided to transport the vehicle by plane, to Bogota. This wa=
s not
> only expensive ($ 2,000) but a really bad idea. Our van, the longes=
t
> version of the full size Dodge, fitted inside the cargo plane by a
> matter of inches, only after 10 employees raised and moved it sidew=
ays,
> since it had to be loaded diagonally to be able to fit through the =
cargo
> door!! They let 2 of us travel in the cargo plane, the rest had to =
fly
> by a commercial airline. It felt like being in an Indiana Jones mov=
ie...
> On top of that, the crate that unloaded the vehicle in Bogota damag=
ed
> the fuel tank and some of the rear suspension... Anyway, I've heard=
 that
> ferries are running periodically now, and that the fares are a lot
> cheaper. A very good source for this is the South America Explorers
> Club,(http://www.samexplo.org/index.htm). They have a lot of storie=
s and
> info about people that have done the Darien crossing.
> I also have a small collection of articles about the Darien, people=
 that
> pioneered it by car, horses, etc. as well as about people and
> expeditions that have crossed the Americas from north to south or
> viceversa(again, by foot, horse, bicycle, 4x4, etc).
> I know of a couple of books (one written in german) about people
> traveling the world in their Westfalias. However, I have not been a=
ble
> to locate these at my local library. I am also attaching some leads=
 from
> the internet.
> There is not such thing as crossing borders w/out delays...
> We never got the carnet de passage, nor "la libreta",although we we=
re
aware of both, didn't really
> need them. The carnet is "required" for the South American countrie=
s
only. I recall some paperwork in Quito, done through the US embassy,
> that permitted us to cross Ecuador and get into Peru. I have all th=
e
> records of the trip. Expenses, maps, gas prices, exchange rates, bo=
rder
> paperwork, slides, etc etc. (I was going to write an article about =
the
> trip, so I gathered all the info I could).
> Anyway, I'm realizing that there is just too much info to cover the
> whole thing in just an e-mail. Hope this is helpful for now. If you=
 have
> other specific questions, I'll be glad to help you.
> I wouldn't recommend taking pets with you. They become one more sou=
rce
> of problems/delays/bribes at border crossings.
> Of course, knowing your vehicle is a must. Roads are not as bad as =
they
> say. We did not have a single flat tire in the whole trip. The issu=
e of
> parts, though should be paid attention. Parts for old american vans=
 are
> available in most Latin American countries and the same goes for pr=
e-72
> VW buses. With a Vanagon, you would have a hard time with this. (No
> vanagons in Latin America, with a few exceptions).
> Keep in touch!
> Cris.
> '91 Westie
> '66 Kombi
> '67 Deluxe
>=20
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
>                             [Yahoo! Search]
>=20
>   Find a Friend - Get Local - Get Personal - Picks of 1996 - Colleg=
e
>                                  Bowls
>=20
> -------------------------------------------------------------------=
---
>                Categories - Sites - AltaVista Web Pages
> -------------------------------------------------------------------=
---
>=20
>                           AltaVista Web Pages
>=20
>    Found 139300 matches containing pan american highway. Displaying
>                              matches 1-20.
>=20
>    * Pan American Highway - Pan American Highway. CTIA: 193.000 Pri=
ce:
>      $ 8.05 Convention on the Pan American Highway Multilateral Dat=
e
>      Signed: 12/23/1936 Number of Pages: 7 File...
>      --http://www.oceanalaw.com/treaties/paname~1.htm
>=20
>    * Driving the Pan American Highway to Mexico and Central America=
 -
>      Driving the Pan American Highway to Mexico and Central America=
..
>      by: Pritchard , 150 pages; Photos, Illus. & Maps Order Number:
>      #G3329. Please click...
>      --http://www.gorp.com/atb/camer/g3329.htm
>=20
>    * Roofing tiles - FOR SALE. Cement roofing tile plant in Costa
>      Rica, completely equipped including building. This well
>      established plant is located in Cartago Costa Rica,...
>      --http://www.zurqui.holowww.com/crinfocus/tejas/tejeseng.html
>=20
>    * Where We Are - York Cold Storage offers a centralized location=
 in
>      the United States that gives you many shipping advantages. Our
>      York, Nebraska location provides: Three..
>      --http://www.djnmarketing.com/page3.html
>=20
>    * Jicaro Galan Hotels - nbsp; Jicaro Galan Hotels. Hotel Turicen=
tro
>      Oasis Colonial, sitting right at the intersection of the Pan
>      American Highway and the road going south from...
>      --http://www.marrder.com/hw/travel/hotels-jicarogalan.htm
>=20
>    * American Baptist Missions - Stephen & Sheila Heneise Mission
>      Field: Santiago, Chile Dear friends in Christ, Monday through
>      Friday at four o'clock we board the Express bus at the stop.
>      --http://www.globeprint.com/scfbc/missions/0196.htm
>=20
>    * Darien Gap 4x4 - The Darien Gap in Panama and Columbia is, exc=
ept
>      to four wheel drives 4x4, the last remaining gap in the
>      Pan-American Highway from North to South
>      --http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Places/CentralAmerica/Darien.ht=
ml
>=20
>    * "The Best of the South" - THE BEST OF THE SOUTH" WEEK. 7 Day /=
 7
>      Night Trip (departs Sundays with a minimum of 2 pax) Trip
>      Highlights: Cerro de la Muerte, Wilson Botanical Gardens,.
>      --http://www.centralamerica.com/cr/tours/sun2.htm
>=20
>    * Hotel El Ocotal - HOW TO GET THERE. El Ocotal offers round tri=
p
>      transfers from San Jos=E9. Reservations must be made in advanc=
e.
>      Many guest choose to drive via the Pan...
>      --http://www.centralamerica.com/cr/hotel/ocotal.htm
>=20
>    * LAREDO PROFILE - LAREDO, TEXAS COMMUNITY PROFILE. LOCATION.
>      Laredo, Texas on U.S. Interstate 35 and Mexico's Pan American
>      Highway, is 150 miles West of the deep water port.
>      --http://www.tristero.com/laredo/edf/lprof.html
>=20
>    * Salama - Salama Farm / Nursery Operations. Ston Forestal began
>      the Costa Rican project with the purchase and reforestation of=
 a
>      1000 hectare former cattle ranch,...
>      --http://www.nlbbs.com/~dc004/salama.html
>=20
>    * Sundance: Film of the Day: The Darien Gap - THE DARIEN GAP. Ly=
n
>      Vaus is broke, homeless, alone. He is eager to run away from h=
is
>      troubled past and start anew. His sole possession, a video
>      camera,...
>      --http:
//www.sundancechannel.com/sundance/festival/films/highlights/darienga=
/
>=20
>    * Patagonia Chile: Heaven for the Serious Fly Fisher - Near the =
end
>      of the Pan American Highway, in Patagonian Chile, lies a vast
>      tangle of rivers, lagoons, lakes and streams teeming with trop=
hy
>      Rainbow and...
>      --http://www.avenir1.com/flyfish/fhome.html
>=20
>    * On Assignment: Ecuador - February 13, 1996 Riobamba, Chimboraz=
o
>      Province Down the Pan-American Highway All the taxis in Quito =
are
>      bright yellow, and watching the streets of the...
>      --http://www.terraquest.com/assignment/uploads/feb13.html
>=20
>    * On Assignment: Ecuador - February 16, 1996 Cuenca and Quito Ci=
ty
>      of Four Rivers. Cuenca is Ecuador's third largest city, but it
>      has only been in the last couple decades that it...
>      --http://www.terraquest.com/assignment/uploads/feb16.html
>=20
>    * Chile; Cautin - American Whitewater Affiliation. Cautin River.
>      Copyright 1992 by Lars Holbek. The Rio Cautin, approached from
>      Victoria on the Pan Am Highway, some 610 kms.
>      --http://www3.us.com/awa/awa/river_project/Chile/Cautin.html
>=20
>    * No Title - INDIAN MARKETS. There is a market almost every day =
of
>      the week, and each is a lively, colorful center of commerce an=
d
>      camaraderie. Going north or south of.
>      --http://mia.lac.net/mintur/highlands/markets.htm
>=20
>    * Tour Descriptions - Iraz=FA Volcano - Iraz=FA Volcano. This to=
ur
>      begins with a short drive on the Pan-American Highway to the b=
ase
>      of the volcano where we will start climbing on a winding,.
>      --http://www.datasolv.com/costarica/h_irazu.html
>=20
>    * Tour Descriptions - Land and Sea Adventure - Land and Sea
>      Adventure. We will depart San Jos=E9 early in the morning by m=
otor
>      coach to Puntarenas via the Pan American Highway. Board the
>      50-foot...
>      --http://www.datasolv.com/costarica/m_landse.html
>=20
>    * Pariana argentea Hollowell & Davidse - Missouri Botanical Gard=
en
>      - TROPICOS - Mesoamericana Checklist - 21 Aug 1996. Pariana
>      argentea Hollowell & Davidse. Novon 2(2): 98. 1992. Type Data
>      From...
>      --http://www.mobot.org/MOBOT/TROPICOS/Meso/Meso3/N25544703.htm=
l
>=20
>                             Next 20 matches
>=20
>          -----------------------------------------------------
>=20
>                                 options
>=20
> -------------------------------------------------------------------=
---
>                          Other Search Engines
>  Alta Vista - Image Surfer - WebCrawler - HotBot - Lycos - Infoseek=
 -
>                       Excite - DejaNews - More...
>=20
>         Yellow Pages - City Maps -- White Pages - Email Search
>=20
>                              More Yahoos
>   My Yahoo! - Yahooligans! for Kids -- Today's News - Stock Quotes =
-
>                             Sports Scores
>        Daily Picks - Today's Web Events & Chats - Weekly Picks
>=20
>  National Yahoos  Canada - France - Germany - Japan - U.K. & Irelan=
d
>=20
>    Yahoo! Metros  Boston - Chicago - D.C. - L.A. - N.Y. - S.F. Bay =
--
>                   Get Local
> -------------------------------------------------------------------=
---
>             Copyright =A9 1994-97 Yahoo! All Rights Reserved.
> Return to the main 4WD page.
> -------------------------------------------------------------------=
---
>=20
>                             The Darien Gap.
>=20
> The Darien Gap remains the last gap in the Pan-American highway fro=
m
> North to South America. It was ever the major obstacle to one of th=
e
> last epic car journeys to be achieved - the trip from Alaska to Tie=
rra
> del Fuego.
>=20
> Now, Patricia Upton has produced an Adventurer's Guide to Crossing =
the
> Darien Gap (details below). This 40 page guide includes a wealth of
> information for the expeditioner - getting there, shipping, embassi=
es,
> paperwork, customs and legal matters, accommodation, health and
> medicine, contacts, sources of information, politics and
> guerrillas(!), and of course the route.
>=20
> Patricia Upton is well qualified to write about the Darien Gap. Lor=
en
> Upton has traversed the area (with others) in 1976, 1977 and 1979, =
and
> with Patricia and others in 1985 - 1987 and 1995. Between 1985 and
> 1987 they completed the first all land crossing of the gap in a 196=
6
> Jeep CJ5 (earlier crossing included floating vehicles down rivers o=
r
> through the Atrato Swamp). In 1995 the Uptons, with Juan Rivas,
> traversed the gap using a two wheel drive Rokon Trail-Breaker
> motorcycle.
>=20
> The guide includes such sobering notes as
>=20
>      1976 One expedition member mysteriously shot and killed.
>      1977 Jeep lost in accident in Ecuador.
>      1979 Jeep lost to an unsavory encounter with a Columbian Park
>      official.
>=20
> This is plainly not a trip for the novice.
>=20
> La Tortuga
>=20
> When Frank and Helen Schreider were contemplating driving from the
> Arctic Circle in Alaska to Tierra del Fuego in South America in the
> early 1950's there were three main obstacles - southern Mexico,
> southern Costa Rica and eastern Panama (the Darien Gap) which requi=
red
> shipping by rail or sea. Consequently the Schreiders chose to use a=
n
> Amphibious Jeep (Seep) so that they could take to the ocean and sai=
l
> around these problems. It sounds simple but was very hazardous. (ht=
tp:
> //www .sofcom .com.au/ 4WD/ Mil/ Mil.html)
>=20
> Early Darien Gap Expeditions
>=20
> The first vehicular crossing of the Darien Gap was made in 1959 - 1=
960
> using a Jeep and a Land-Rover. Upton records that the exact route f=
rom
> the Panamanian / Columbian border is unknown, possibly being by boa=
t
> down the Atrato River.
>=20
> Around 1962 an expedition sponsored by General Motors failed in an
> attempt to take three Corvairs, surely improbable vehicles, across =
the
> gap.
>=20
> The British Trans-Americas Expedition drove two Range Rovers from
> Alaska to Tierra del Fuego in 1972. This was partly to promote the
> recently released Range Rover. They had numerous mechanical problem=
,
> breaking differentials due to overloading and the use of over-size
> tyres on the Darien Gap section. That section was undertaken as a
> major expedition with British Army support.
>=20
> Other Reading
>=20
> 1954-1956 amphibious Jeep sails around the Darien Gap en-route from
> Alaska to Tierra del Fuego:
>=20
>    * Helen and Frank Schreider, La Tortuga, 1957.
>      The Schreiders subsequently took an amphibious jeep around the
>      islands of Indonesia, The Drums of Tonkin, 1963.
>=20
> 1960 a Land-Rover and a Jeep drive overland from Panama to Columbia=
:
>=20
>    * Kip Ross, We Drove Panama's Darien Gap, National Geographic, V=
119
>      No3 368-389 March 1961.
>    * Richard Bevis, Linking the Americas, The Autocar, 927-929, 1 D=
ec
>      1961.
>=20
> 1971-1972 British Trans-Americas expedition, led by Major John
> Blashford-Snell, drove two Range-Rovers from Alaska to Cape Horn. A
> SWB Land Rover SIIA also helped over the Darien Gap:
>=20
>    * Russell Braddon, The Hundred Days Of Darien, 1974.
>    * John Blashford-Snell, Where the Trails Run Out, 1974.
>=20
> 1996 Loren Lee Upton and Patricia Upton have made numerous trips to
> and through the Darien Gap and now publish an invaluable guide for
> this most challenging four wheel drive adventure:
>=20
>    * P. E. Upton, Through the Darien Gap, an Adventurer's Guide for
>      Crossing the Darien Gap of Panama and Columbia, pp40, 1996.
>      USA: $12.00, overseas: $16, ($US)
>      P. E. & L. L. Upton, P.O. Box 803, Salmon, Idaho 83467, USA
>      [email enquiries and orders] [NB. away travelling late Dec' an=
d
>      Jan']
>=20
> - L_Allison
>=20
> -------------------------------------------------------------------=
---
> URL:http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/4WD.html
>=20
> [Return to main 4WD page]  [Return to Home Page]
>=20
> Copyright =A9 1996 Sofcom Distributors Pty Ltd All Rights Reserved

------- FORWARD, End of original message -------