>One etch trace on the back of the panel circuit board carries power from the
>input connector at the rear end, along the full length of the lower edge of
>the board to the switch connector at the front. This etch had melted through
>at one spot, so no power went to the switch.
>
>This etch line appears to carry current for the entire panel. As tanks are
>filled and more LEDs light, this trace has to carry more current. It's a very
>fine trace, and appears to be designed undersized for the current it has to
>carry when most LEDs are lit. Of course it will heat more the longer you hold
>the switch with the LEDs on. A dealer will certainly replace the board under
>warranty, but it looks likely to happen to the replacement too.
>
>The cure is to solder a "green-wire" jumper the full length of this trace,
>from the diode terminal on one end to the switch socket on the other. Since
>current divides through multiple traces on the rest of the board, this one
>long trace is probably the only one that will cause problems.
>

was this a '97?

on the '95 diagram it appears that the battery current is fed into the
board at the 5-pin plug, and the switch is wired in series at the other end
via the 3-pin plug. hard to say for sure since the board schematic isn't
shown.

while i don't fault your solution, it's surprising that 4x4 leds could require
*that* much current. I wonder if there's not a problem further down the
line causing too much current?

-rick

Rick Gordon
Bainbridge Island, WA, USA
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rickgo@halcyon.com
http://www.halcyon.com/rickgo/
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