Scott McDonell wrote:
>
> bpremack wrote:
>
> > My 86 Synchro runs well but has a small quirk.  About 10-30 seconds
> > after a
> > cold start (at temperatures under about 60 F) the oil warning
> > light/buzzer
> > come on for a block or two.  They then go off and are not heard from
> > again.
> >  This happens about half the time, with no discernible pattern.
> > Occasionally while driving the oil light will come on for a few
> > seconds
> > (without the buzzer) and then go off.   The oil level is full and oil
> > and
> > filter are changed at 3-4000 miles with Valvoline 10-40......
>
> Hi Budd,
>
> Just so happens that I also have an '86 Syncro, and if I run a
> multi-viscosity oil like the 10-40 you mentioned, I have similar
> low-pressure warning lights and buzzers going off.  I checked with AVP,
> from whom I purchased my rebuilt 2.1 waterboxer, and the technician
> there told me they never recommend anything but straight 30-weight for
> Vanagons.  Well, I'm currently running straight 40-weight for the
> summer, and the change took care of the low-pressure problem.  Come the
> cold El Nino-based winter that I'm sure is right around the corner, I'll
> change to a 20-50, but the AVP guys say to never go to a 5-xx or 10-xx
> weight.  Might be worth a try going to a single-viscosity oil.
>
> What do the techies on the list think of using 30-weight versus
> multi-viscosity oils?  I'd be interested in having some others confirm
> the AVP advice.
>
BAD ADVICE! (IMHO).  Running 30 will cause the above mentioned problems
and more.  Running 40 wt in summer might be OK if you are a Yankee, but
if anywhere near Texas better go with 50.  20 - 50 wt sud work if it
doesn't get too hot.  Run 30 wt only in winter.

Nothing wrong with running on the heavy side, just that it takes longer
to circulate when started.  Just let it idle a little before putting in
gear.  If you live in Montana or Canada or Alaska, well, lighter wts
will do in winter.  There you consideration is getting it to crank.

Tbill