Since VW OEM wires and boots aren't molded onto the spark plug boot wire
leads, moisture is a problem because the engine's location is in the van's
rear, and during wet conditions spray get on the cylinders.  I found that
corrosion of plug end connectors is was particuallry noticable on the
forward cyclinders.

  Well I got a couple of $70 supplier response to my request for a "knarly
spark plug wire set."  $96 at the dealer. It turns out that you can
actually rebuild you OEM wire set. VW sells each piece individually. Each
complete  spark plug lead consists of: distrubtore connetor, boot, wire
crimp, wire, then at the other end, wire crimp, boot, spark plug connector.

DISASSEBBLY

 Just hold the wire and twist the lead end counter-clockwise while pulling
gently, The connection end will un-screw leaving you holding the wire with
the special wire crimp in one hand and a reusable end connector in the
other hand.  The procedure is the same for both ends of the wire and the
distributor wire.  Bently has an exploded diagram of each piece and it's
correct ohm value, can't hurt to check these, but I feel unless you having
real problems it's unlikly actual brass insert is bad.

PARTS-

   It's the wire crimp thats the secret to the job. The connectors screw
onto them. VW SELLS the wire crimps  P/N 030-905-423-A at $2.30 retail,
$1.84 is the 20% they give me., you need 10, make it 12 in case of a
mistakes, And is best to have a wire crimp tool to do the job with.  I have
a "MOLEX" crimp tool that makes those factory looking crimps where the
"ears of the connector" are neatly fastened into the wire and cover. My
regular wire tool does just ok, but not real neatly done.

 My local Dealer doesn't stock the 7mm copper stranded wire, and won't
order since its a 50' or something roll. But NAPA does, so I'm just buying
10' It's under a dollar a foot. Note that the OEM uses shielded connectors
and that it is in fact a strand copper wire lead, not a graphite one like
most cars use.

I picked up a set of wire looms; the things that separate your wires, but
at $6 they weren't a bargain.   My wires were just tied together with the
rest of the engine wiring. Not bad for good wires maybe, but there is a lot
a voltage and they get holes in the insulation occasionally,and an arcing
occurs and the electical juice jumps to a ground point if one is close. You
can see this at night with the engine running. You can hear it but it takes
a trained ear.

REASSEBLEY

   I dipped each connector into TARN-X to clean them, then I rinsed them
with water, and dried with compressed air. (I buy that stuff from office
supply stores, $8 a can) I'm making my wires a skosh longer than stock but
otherwise the same path. Cut to lenght and crimp on the new wire leads and
screw the connectors back on. I put a gob of the dieletic oxidation gard
compond on everything as I was putting the leads together

Sincerely Mark
91 Carat WE
"Lazarus"