Found one of tose metal flanges on a 1.9 core in a junk yard for $5  what a
bargain.  Only wish I'd discovered the core before I paid  $32 wholesale
for a pr. of pushrods that were bent!

Dimwitted Moose and Flying Squirrel

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> From: Joel Walker <JWALKER@UA1VM.UA.EDU>
> To: Vanagon@GERRY.SDSC.EDU
> Subject: Re: Bad heads and a noise
> Date: Saturday, December 06, 1997 3:15 PM
>
> ok, first of all: you need to make VERY sure it's really the heads that
> are leaking. there are other things back there that can leak, and the
> antifreeze will dribble/leak downwards and drip OFF the heads (but the
> heads themselves will NOT be leaking).
>
> flange - there is a little PLASTIC flange on the engine, just below the
> alternator. there is a small hose going to it (the hose comes from up
> at the top edge of the hatch opening). this flange warps and the o-ring
> starts leaking. the coolant will drip off the right side head (usually)
> and it looks for all the world like the Dreaded Head Leaks. you can get
> a NEW flange, made up metal (surprise!), and replace the old plastic one.
> cost: about $20. you'll need some new gasket material, too ... NOT an
o-ring.
> the new flange does NOT have a groove for an o-ring. i used some material
> from NAPA, generic water-system gasket stuff with adhesive on one side.
> about $4.
>
> water pump - can dribble out of a "weep hole" when it starts going bad.
> usually starts going bad if the previous owner did NOT replace the
antifreeze
> regularly every other year or so. the dribble can run down and drip off
the
> left head.  about $200.
>
> oil cooler - right above the oil filter. they have been known to leak,
also.
> not cheap. i think about $100.
>
> coolant tank - leftmost plastic tank, on the rear wall of the engine
> compartment. they develop hairline cracks (due to the heat) and leak when
> they are warm. about $40 for the tank. also the coolant lever sensor, up
> top on the tank, can develop a leak. about $20 with new o-ring. both of
these
> can leak down onto the muffler shield and onto the ground ... making you
> THINK it's the left head leaking.
>
> various hoses and/or hose clamps. as hoses get old, they don't contract
as
> fast as they used to ... so when you shut a warm engine off, the metal
may
> cool and shrink away from the hose, creating a leak. tightening up the
clamp
> can help, but you'll need to replace that hose sooner or later.
>
> so, anyway, the first thing to do is make SURE you really really have the
> leaking heads ... by checking out all the cheaper possibilities first! :)
> good luck.
> joel