Tim:  I haven't used the medical stuff so you may be right.  However, the
Plexus withstands incredible shear loads and I would wager that the
fiberglass fender will break long before the bond does.  Not having seen
the lips, I can't believe there's no place to glue.  How is this fellow
going to get screws in fiberglass and then into the body without enough
contact area for the meth glue to stick.  There's always epoxy, but that
would tend to be brittle. Like you said, there's always the 3M urethane
The industrial stuff is called ScotchWeld and I think the nuimber is like
3533 or something like that.  The automotive stuff can't be too far off
chemically.

Dimwitted Moose and Flying Squirrel

----------
> From: Tim Smith <smitht@UNB.CA>
> To: Vanagon@GERRY.SDSC.EDU
> Subject: fender lips
> Date: Tuesday, December 09, 1997 2:07 PM
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'd stay away from the methacrylic glue, it's brittle. I've used lots of
> the medical stuff, fractures like glass.  Try a good FLAPS/Body Shop
> supplier for a suitable 3M or similar product. Tenacious rhino snot
> stuff will do. And try to avoid drilling if at all possible.  Just bond
> using them on with lots of C-clamps or spring clamps til set.  I've just
> pulled some Jeep Cherokee lips off for a homebrew set.  Rust underneath
> was nuts, despite factory finished paint etc. Just tore fender lips out
> completely on one.
>
> Full bonding will be less likely to break up lips, compared to screws,
> when the Syncro folks start bashing trees with'em. Final point, silicone
> goop cures giving off acetic acid, that nice vinegary smell.  Also
> initiates rusting. So primer/paint holes well if going that way.
> Stainless steel hardware is cheap, don't skimp. Have fun, Tim