Thanks for the replies.  A salute to Ken Lewis, who recommended removing
the coil wire and cranking the engine over while having the wrench braced.
After many different attempts using other methods, that was the only one
that worked.  Don't be fooled, I realize that the pulley is staring you
right in the face, but I had to drop the rear tin to get enough room to get
a socket wrench (30 MM) on it, and this ain't no V8, so the crank turns
quite easily even with the vehicle in gear/emergency brake on.  Theres too
much "give" to be able to break the bolt free, even though it's only
supposed to be torqued to 43 ft/lb.   Far cry from my old 289 Ford with
which you could barely budge the crank unless you took the spark plugs out.
Once again, the list comes through!

For future reference, in case you need to remove a single v-belt crank pulley:

1.  Unbolt rear engine tin.  You don't need to remove it, you just need to
drop it about three inches.  If you use a open end or combination wrench
instead of a socket, you may not need to drop the tin, but I didn't have
such an animal and can't say how it would work.

2.  Attach 30 mm socket to crank pulley bolt.  I found the best place to
brace was to place the ratchet wrench with a breaker bar between the oil
filler and dipstick, with the breaker bar resting on the right side edge of
the engine compartment hole.

3.  Remove distributior/coil wire (to prevent ignition).

4.  Crank for about one second.

5.  Remove bolt easily. Give yourself a pat on the back.

Worked for me! I did it alone, but would definately recommend having
someone monitor the ratcheting while cranking the engine over.  Don't
forget to remove the coil wire!  I only did this after exhausting all other
possibilities.  I wasn't comfortable with it, and was surprised at how well
it worked.  Thanks again.

Scott
'84 Westy
Rockville, MD