I'm talking about curing. This is the agingly proccess of a
metal. In a motor the year of use and abuse, heating and cooling,
cause the block to twist and warp. They all do. How much is based
on how good they cured the motor and machined the motor when it
was made, verses the condition in witch to was used.

  These are the some of the risks taken when rebuilding an engine
   yourself. My opinion is leave this up to the pros.

            Eric                   86-VW4x4
            vw4x4@fyi.net          72-240z
            Pittsburgh, PA USA     1936-Chrysler

On Thu, 12 Mar 1998, ROGunter wrote:

> In a message dated 98-03-11 07:14:39 EST, vw4x4@fyi.net writes:
>
> <<  Don't forget the cost of machining the block. ALL motor
>      cases  that I have ever taken apart, have required a line
>      bore to make the crank run true.
>
>              Eric                   86-VW4x4
>              vw4x4@fyi.net          72-240z
>              Pittsburgh, PA USA     1936-Chrysler >>
> Eric,
>
>     Are you talking about air-cooled or water cooled boxer engines?  The
> machinist who is supposedly the best in the Washington, DC area told me he has
> only seen one Vanagon engine block that needed to machined (line-bored).  He
> says the alloy they used on those engines were more resistant to wear than the
> magnesium blocks that VW used in the 60's and 70's.  I am going to have the
> block checked for wear anyway, but this guy says he would be very surprised if
> I needed anything done to the block.
>
>    Thanks for the response.
>
> Russell G.
> '85 GL
> '93 EV
>