Many many thanks to everyone who resonded to my desperate pleas. It was, in fact, the starter and after getting a Bosch rebuilt (for $130) all is well. Next time I'll try fixing the starter myself! 

The whole procedure took about an hour and a half, but I took my time and checked a lot of other stuff while I had it up on jacks.  

One thing I did do was grease the rod that links the shifter to the transmission as mentioned on the list, and yes, it does make a difference.

Thanks again, this list is great (and so are the Porsche 928 and 944 lists, but stay away from the Audi Quattro list, they can get mean unless you are a certified mechanic)

Dave
83 944
86 928
86 Vanagon
89 Jetta (for sale)
90 80 Quattro (sold - thank goodness!)

[text/html]