> I recently purchased a 83.5 Westy with "drooping seals." I
> contemplated buying seals but wanted a "quick solution." ...
> I found an adhesive that bonds, seals, is waterproof and
> suitable for rubber (the one I used is called SEAL-ALL).

> ps the side seals on my '72 Westy have been removed for about 3 years. I
> haven't noticed their removal. My mechanic says they improve the
> aerodynamics of the top so it doesn't "helicopter" on the highway.
> Q: Does anyone have information on the importance/lack of importance of
> these seals?

Other than the flat, across-the-top-of-the-poptop, seal, the poptop seals
are meant to be held on by their own metal clips, with no adhesive.  (The
originals used metal that rusted;, hence the "droop"; mine use no-rust
aluminum clips.)  The drawback to glueing the original seal back on is that
when the seal continues to deteriorate to the point that replacement is a
must, removing and replacing it will be made more difficult by the fact that
you will have to chisel off all of the glue that you put there. Putting a
drop of glue here or there to fix a small sag may not be a bad stopgap
measure, and I've done it myself.  But glueing the whole seal, or a large
part of it, will just make for a lot of work down the road.

Regarding the need for the poptop seal, it serves to prevent wind and rain
from blowing in under the poptop while driving.  The increased wind pressure
can, over the long term, weaken the poptop canvas.

Obligatory plug:  My poptop seals are $49.95 for the 3-sided poptop seal,
$24.95 for the flat top-seal that goes across the leading edge, and $14.95
for the luggage rack seal, minus a $10 list member discount for the 3-piece
set (you must ask for the discount when ordering).  I have them custom made
to my specs, for a fit and finish that are closer to the original than any
other aftermarket seal.

- Ron Salmon
 The Bus Depot
 http://www.busdepot.com
 (215) 234-VWVW