At 12:21 PM 7/23/98 EDT, you wrote:
>I guess I'm convinced that under the rear seat, on the passenger side,
>is best.  I think about the only other place that would work is the

>
>For some reason I'm reluctant to cut visible holes in the under-the-seat
>box, so I'm considering running no cold air return duct, and relying

Steven,

To me, there is only one logical place to put the heater, and that
is under the bench seat on the passenger side, just behind the kick
panel.  Why?  Accessability and ease of installment.  If you need to
access the heater for any reason (tightening propane pipe connection,
fixing the hoses) you want easy access.  The installation in this
location is a snap.  You should at least install the heater and hoses
and if you don't want to do the tap in connections you can have the
RV place do those.  But they are really simple to do.  Go to the
library and read up on how to do copper pipe connections and you'll
be set.  You can use either compression or flared connections.  You
test the connections with a soap and water solution.  If they aren't
sealed, you either tighten or redo the fitting.

Routing the copper pipe is easy.  You'll need to drill a 2 holes
out the side of the bench seat and though the hidden utility box
cabinet.  Routing the pipe around the fridge requires removing the
fridge.  Removing the fridge is as easy as reading the Bently manual
and following the step-by-step instructions.  Remember to turn off
the main propane valve.  While you have the fridge out, route the
power supply wiring up through the water tank cabinet by shoving it
up the right side of the bench seat area.  You can can catch the
other end of the wire through the rear top cabinet through the
access panel.  Some clever dexterity will be in order here.  ;)
This is actually how I did my copper pipe too (what a bear!).  I
had my propex before the first big purchase.  Tom's way is far better!
Anyway, fish the wiring around through the back of the top cabinets
and feed it out where the the water lines are routed to the faucet.
Get it passed the rear of the fridge and you can get it to the battery
however you want.  Route extra wires for future utility before you put
the fridge back in.

I *strongly* suggest that you drill both intake and outlet holes through
the floor.  I know this is probably the most painful part of the exer-
cise, but it must be done to get a good safe installation.  You only
need one opening for the actually heated air in the kick panel.  The
intake for the heating air is not necessary.  Another thing I wish I
new before I put mine in... :(

You can do this job, but be sure to measure several times before you
drill that first hole for the burner vent holes.  Cause once they're
done, there done.....

Have fun!

Steven
Sacramento, CA
sjohnson@calweb.com