Dunno about the crankshaft clearance, but you can deburr those shims on a
piece of sandpaper taped to a piece of flat wood or metal.  (probably the
most cost effective tool in all of metalworking)  Just be careful not to
take them out of parallel, though that would be pretty hard to do.
Russell

----------
> From: jdinan <jdinan@erols.com>
> To: type2@type2.com
> Subject: cranks and cylinder shims
> Date: Sunday, September 20, 1998 12:19 PM
>
> I just split the case on my 1776 to replace the stock crankshaft with a
> counterweighted one which I have yet to purchase.  I could use help with
> two items:
>
> 1. After reading the recommendations on this list, I will check prices on
a
> Demello and a RIMCO crank.   Will these reworked cranks be compatible
with
> the standard main bearings which I have in my case?
>
> 2.  I was running a set of 0.040 cylinder shims to drive the compression
> ration down to 7 but the engine ran very hot.  To reduce heat generation,
I
> bought a set of 0.060 cylinder shims from RMMW.  I just looked at them
and
> found that they are truly ugly pieces of metal.  They are obviously
stamped
> out.  Their surfaces are not at all smooth. On one, there is a piece of
> metal that has been rolled over during the stamping so that it sticks out
> of the plane of the shim.  The only oil leak I had with my previous
rebuild
> came from the joint between #4 cylinder and the case,  an area which
> included one of the 040 shims.  I can bet that if I install these 060s, I
> will have serious oil leaks.   My question is can I do better than this?
> Do any vendors sell shims that are machined and or polished?
>
> Thanks, Jack
>
>
>
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