I prefer to find a good used engine with the exhaust and everything still
attached.  By adding the the coolant manifold on the right side, the engine
compartment loop, and modifying the radiator pipes to fit, you can also use
the later cooling system.  You will also need the later side tin on the left
side.  The later cooling system bleeds air much easier and provides improved
coolant flow.  Also more resistant to air entrapment.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Wil Barker <wbarker@NOTES.CC.BELLCORE.COM>
To: Vanagon@VANAGON.COM <Vanagon@VANAGON.COM>
Date: Tuesday, September 08, 1998 8:42 PM
Subject: Converting a 1.9 to a 2.1 Wasserboxer

>Hi there!
>
>I've got an '85 Vanagon GL Westfalia with 160K miles on it.
>It's got 100psi in both front cylinders and 160psi in the back, but it runs
>pretty well.  My mechanic (German) prefers to do the whole motor when
>you've
>got more than 150K miles.  I agree.
>
>I've got a 1.9 motor right now and I'd like to switch to 2.1 if I'm putting
>in a whole new (rebuilt) motor.  Anyone ever do this?
>
>My mechanic like to use ONLY VW rebuilds ($3000 ish) which I don't think
>will let me upgrade.  From what I understand, they need to keep my 1.9 case
>and put in a 2.1 (76mm) crank to increase the displacment.
>
>So... I'm looking hard for the best / most reputable Wasserboxer engine
>building co. I can
>find.  As well as any other safe ways to get a bit more power (??) out of a
>2.1 Wasser.
>
>Ideas I've come across so far:
>
>Berg 1.4:1 ratio rockers
>Port / Pollish the heads
>Header / muffer
>
>I'd like to keep it pretty simple and close to stock, for
>many reasons.
>Thanks!
>
>- Wil
>'85 Westy GL