Running the tank outside sounds like a good idea, i agree, and would be easy
to do.

Davidson wrote:

> Just a thought here:
> I believe if you read the label on those 1 lb propane containers you will
> find that they say not to be used indoors. I think this is because they
> have a pressure relief valve in them that can, under the wrong conditions,
> spew propane into your van. That's why houses have their propane tanks
> outside. That's why your Vanagon propane tank is outside the van. I think.
> I'm no expert, but I think this is worth checking out.
> Good Luck,
> Bill
> 90 Westy Syncro
> Lake Tahoe
>
> ----------
> > From: Steve <sxs@concentric.net>
> > To: vanagon@VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: CatPlat Gas Soource & Positioning
> > Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 10:27 AM
> >
> > Robyn, for a gas supply on my portable set up, i first just
> > attached a standard regulator and coupling that let me use
> > those small 1lb. propane containers they sell everywhere for
> > portable stoves, lamps, etc.  These last 8 hours of
> > continuous operation each in the smaller cat plat and worked
> > for me fine for several years.  The regulator/hose/coupling
> > cost me $5.00 ...they sell them at home depot for a little
> > more.
> >
> > Last month, i hooked up direct access to the westy gas
> > supply.  A lot more complicated.  I put a "T" in under the
> > sink and  then added on a shut-off vaulve and then added a
> > special nipple for hooking up a flexible special rubber gas
> > hose which i ran out from the cabinet through the hole in
> > the cabinet by the driver's seatbelt, and there i attached
> > another one of those hose nipples so i could attach a flared
> > fitting that would attach to the heater.  I also bought a
> > plug to insert in the fitting for when i am not using the
> > heater/hose.  I have to screw the gas line together
> > everytime i set up the heater, and tighten the connection
> > with wrenches....and remember to turn the shut-off valve off
> > when un-hooking it  They do make "snap" connectors that will
> > allow me to just snap the hose in, but i could not find them
> > at the time.
> >
> > If you have never before run gas line, it might be worth
> > paying an rv shop to do this part for you.  It should not
> > cost too much.  The hard part here is getting all the
> > parts.  You need to use forged flare nuts on gas
> > applications, not the regular water type.  The hose is
> > special stuff, too.  (But hose is only supposed to be used
> > in outdoor applications.)
> >
> > The other alternative is to use the hose/regulator set up
> > that allows you to use those small 1lb tanks...or a separate
> > larger tank.  This is much easier, quicker and cheaper.  The
> > only difference is that you have to carry gas, but those
> > tanks are small and cheap and easy to find.  No matter which
> > system you use, you are going to have to hook the heater up
> > to some gas source each time you set the heater up if you
> > use it as a portable like mine.  You have to be careful to
> > not let the cannisters tip over while in use.  I just put
> > mine in the step well by the driver's door....perfect place.
> >
> > one last word....try setting the forward table up so it is
> > right over the driver's seat...and then put the heater way
> > back against the steering wheel.  This position is very
> > effective....the heater radiates haet all the way back to
> > the back of the bus from here...you can feel it when lying
> > on the lower bunk.  These heaters need to have unobstructed
> > paths to the main cabin/occupants as they provide radiant
> > heat.  If it's too low or obstructed by objects the
> > performance will be diminished.  Just a FYI.  Experiment
> > with different positions!
> > steve