Martin:

Excellent points! Definitely replace the seals and pilot bearing while
everything is opened up!
I have also had the problem of the differential casting getting in the
way of re-installing the shaft and the circlip seems to only be on the
diesel tranny. The reverse gear just *barely* doesn't want to slide down
the shaft due to the interference. I have done this 3 times on gas
trannys, and once on the diesel. On the diesel, I had to unscrew the
retaining ring on the side of the trans a few turns to shift the diff
out of the way. No problems on the gas ones. Gear slid down the shaft
just fine!

I think the stud is M6mmx1.25 pitch or M8mmx1.25...but that is way too
trivial for me. Todd may have the exact size for us.

Martin Jagersand wrote:
>
> Gary,
>
> I'd strongly recommend alternative 2 below. Do it right since you're
> rebuilding the engine anyway.
>
> It should only take an hour or two to pop the bellhousing and get
> the stud out. Main problem is that hands (at least mine) don't fit
> inside the gearbox with the diff installed. Use long neddle noose pliers
> to get the stud out.
>
> Also while at it: replace the input shaft seal (likely damaged when
> the shaft was pulled through), and pilot bearing (likely cause of
> the shaft sticking to the engine and pulling out in the first
> place.) Each one is just a few $ (5 or 6) from the flaps.
>
>

--
TomC
tcarrington@relitech.com
http://www.relitech.com/tomc/tomvw.htm
85 Vanagon Crew Cab
82 Vanagon Westy diesel=>gas conversion
65 Notchback