I did the tests the Bently said to do to determine if the AFM is bad.  When
I did the variable resistance test my readings were randon rather than
progressive.  I then took the black cover off and saw that the track was
worn.  I attempted the "fix" but it did not work any better.  The new
AFmeter was a world of difference.

Some symtoms I had were:
Flat acceleration- until after @3000 rpms then the power would kick in.
No real engine power in low engine speeds.  New engine helped but still
lacked "power" below @3000 rpms. (Now the engine runs a lot stronger
throughout the RPM range 1700 to 5600)
Trying to advance timing one degree decreased engine power.  Had to be at
stock timing mark to run. (I advanced the timing 2 degrees and it runs
STRONGER now.)
Engine did not like to run good below @2500 rpms.  (Now the engine can go
down to 1700 rpms.  I can take fifth gear down to 35 mph at 1700 rpms and
accelerate smoothly back to 70 mph.)

Bottom line is DO the tests to see if you need a AFM do not stick one on
hoping it works or solves your problem.

The PO of my van did MOST of his driving on short trips, this action wore
out the first part of the track for the lower air volume.

Robert

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