> Eric,
>
> The computer reset is the only thing that keeps me running.  So far I have
> the following suggestions from people:
>
> 1.  Ignition switch  ($30 to replace)

Possible, but doubtful.

> 2.  Air sensor  ($450 for part)

Ken Wilford has these for $100 brand new for '86 and up. Quite a
deal. Even if yours isn't shot, it might be worth having around for a
spare, as the AFM is a wear item.

> 3.  fuel filter

Replace the fuel filter, it's cheap, and needs to be replaced
regularly anyhow. It is unlikely to be your problem.

> 4.  Fuel pump

Could be, but it's difficult to know for sure. For starters, attach a
12 volt lamp at the power terminals, and see if the power is steady
or not. Also, hook up a fuel pressure gauge and monitor the pressure.
Be careful in doing this that you use the correct 8 mm hose, and that
it and the gauge are rated for 100 psi or so.

> 5.  Water in cooling system

How could the contents of the cooling system cause a problem with the
fuel injection? This suggestion is sheer lunacy. Having the wrong
stuff in the cooling system can cause problems with overheating,
flashing of the coolant warning light, etc, but there's no direct
connection between this and the fuel injection system.

> 6.  some pretty technical solution that involves splicing a resistor (or
> something like that...I'm pretty thick when it comes to electricity) into
> pin number 4 on the air  intake harness

A capacitor. A resistor will do nothing for you. Also, you have to
splice it between the signal and ground pins. The value and type of
this capacitor are pretty important, so look it up in the archives if
you decide to try this.

> 7  and a few more that ZI can't think of just this moment.  I left the
> printed messages at work.

Additional possibilities:

* The hall generator in the distributor could be bad.
* The ECU could be bad (unlikely)
* The ignition module (85 and older vans) could be bad.
* Bad grounds are always a possibility
* Bad FI or fuel pump relay.

Joshua Van Tol -- jjvantol@uswest.net