| Subject: | remove |
| From: | Les Ross |
| Date: | Mon, 22 Mar 1999 16:38:29 -0600 |
>There are 24 messages totalling 1000 lines in this issue. > >Topics in this special issue: > > 1. Final - 91 bucking and Digitool > 2. Air Cool Pushrod Tube Install > 3. Brake cleaner, tire treads, and organics > 4. fuel injector hose (4) > 5. FW: Syncro Westy for sale! > 6. Front Windshield Leak > 7. Idling high and uneven. Problem filling with coolant. (2) > 8. temp sensor-86 vanagon > 9. CV 12 pt tool > 10. biodegradation, organics, etc. > 11. Need Speaker Advice (2) > 12. NO VW CONTENT: RE: biodegradation, organics, etc. > 13. Fear of asking a question?? Gee wonder why... [long'ish] > 14. Tire question.. > 15. Power Door Lock Problems Persist (2) > 16. Fwd: Euro-Engine: 87 Volkswagen Vanagon, Mechanical, cylinder head and > piston sleeves > 17. Mechanic says my '88 ECU ist KAPUT ! > 18. Battery draining, or bad battery? > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:36:20 -0800 >From: Nathaniel Merrill <nmerrill@PARAMETRIX.COM> >Subject: Final - 91 bucking and Digitool > >Last post I spelled out the symptoms and the digitool readings which = >pointed me directly to a faulty throttle position switch. I purchased a = >new switch (Dealer $77) and installed it Saturday. The job was a piece of = >cake and while I was at it I cleaned everything I could get at with the = >stuff all removed (air box/AFM, throttle body) and lubricated the throttle = >"valve" well (and the cable). I put it all together and the van runs = >great. Only problem I had was I apparently pulled the throttle cable to = >tight and on my test drive it some how tightened up and my idle went to = >around 3 grand. Backed the cable off and all is well. Back to loving my = >westy! >Nat >Seattle =20 > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:05:28 -0800 >From: David Easterwood <deasterw@SPSU.EDU> >Subject: Re: Air Cool Pushrod Tube Install > >At 10:22 AM 3/21/99 EST, John Reynolds wrote: >>Help! - I just can't get seem to get the these things to seat properly. >>The Haynes and Wilson book just says push them in, but it ain't (at least >>for me) that easy. Muir says to use visegrips on the tube and bang them >>- Well I'm not going to follow that route (although that was necessary to >>remove the originals) These are new tubes, seals and I lubed them. I >>put a large washer on the end on the tube and banged that, put even >>still, it just doesn'e seem to go in as far as one wihout seals installed > >John, > >A trick I learned to seat type 4 pushrods is to cut about 6 inches off of >your favorite broom or mop handle, insert the rounded end into the end of >the pushrod tube, and gently tap the wooden handle with a hammer until the >pushrod tube seats. > >Dave > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:58:41 -0800 >From: Steve <Steve@SCHWENK-LAW.COM> >Subject: Re: Brake cleaner, tire treads, and organics > >No...but i did find out that we're all gonna die anyway. Imagine that! >steve > >"Robert A. Alexander" wrote: > >> <<<Hey, have you been able to find out whether or not exposure to >> figerglas >> fibers can result in mesothelioma in human beings OR snail darters???>> >> >> BOB - WA4RRN >> '85GL - "Bourgeois" >> http://www.enviromentalbullshit.com > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:08:23 -0500 >From: Rick Koller <rkoller@HELIX.NIH.GOV> >Subject: fuel injector hose > >Hi all, > The archives are down so I thought I'd query the collective wisdom >of the >real timers. Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the small length >of hose that fits directly on a fuel injector? This is a 1.9 digijet >system. I thought I saw posted, sometime ago, that this was a viable option >as opposed to buying new injectors. Thanks. > >Rick Koller >'90 syncro westie >'91 gl autobox > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:49:39 -0800 >From: Ron 'Coyote' Lussier <coyote@LENSCRAFT.COM> >Subject: FW: Syncro Westy for sale! > >Please reply to mist@mbay.net, not to me. Thanks. > >-----Original Message----- >From: MIST [mailto:mist@mbay.net] >Sent: Sunday, March 21, 1999 7:59 PM >To: coyote@vanagon.com >Subject: Syncro Westy for sale! Please help sell or something ! :-) > > >Moving to the UK in two months.... must sell here, or ship to UK. (panic) > >Alpine White, Westfalia Vanagon Syncro AWD Pop-Top Camper. Made in Austria! > >1989 Alpine White Westfalia Vanagon Syncro Pop-top camper with 3-way refrig, >stove, cabinets, beds (upstairs and downstairs), with 191k miles. Recently, >VW Dealer installed new engine. Transmission, drivetrain, A/C, rebuilt. >Excellent running condition and very clean/rust-free interior & exterior. >All maint records kept and available since birth. >$18K OR BEST OFFER > >Art Neumann >Monterey, CA >evenings 831 384-5663 >or reply email is fast too! > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 19:48:08 +0100 >From: Cam Murphy <murphys@HS-ONLINE.DE> >Subject: Front Windshield Leak > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > >------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE749C.E8ECB620 >Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > >I have a small front windshield leak on the driver's side. There are no = >windshield cracks. The water drips onto the floor mat just below the = >clutch pedal, whether driving or parked. It is not the original = >windshield, and I believe I have had this leak ever since I had the = >windshield replaced. I believe it is a problem with the seal and should = >be repairable at home. Unfortunately, I do not live close to where I had = >it installed. > >Has anyone had a similar problem who would like to share their fix. > >Thanks > >Cam Murphy >'84 Westy > >------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE749C.E8ECB620 >Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > ><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> ><HTML> ><HEAD> > ><META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 = >http-equiv=3DContent-Type> ><META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.2016.0"' name=3DGENERATOR> ></HEAD> ><BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> ><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#000000>I have a = >small front=20 >windshield leak on the driver's side. There are no windshield=20 >cracks. The water drips onto the floor mat just below the clutch = >pedal,=20 >whether driving or parked. It is not the original windshield, and = >I=20 >believe I have had this leak ever since I had the windshield = >replaced. I=20 >believe it is a problem with the seal and should be repairable at home.=20 >Unfortunately, I do not live close to where I had it=20 >installed.</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> ><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT=20 >color=3D#000000></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV> ><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#000000>Has anyone = >had a similar=20 >problem who would like to share their fix.</FONT></FONT></FONT><FONT=20 >color=3D#000000><FONT face=3DArial><FONT = >size=3D3></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV> ><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT=20 >color=3D#000000></FONT></FONT></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT = >face=3DArial><FONT=20 >size=3D3></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV> ><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT=20 >color=3D#000000>Thanks</FONT></FONT></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT=20 >face=3DArial><FONT size=3D3></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV> ><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT=20 >color=3D#000000></FONT></FONT></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT = >face=3DArial><FONT=20 >size=3D3></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV> ><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#000000>Cam=20 >Murphy</FONT></FONT></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT = >face=3DArial><FONT=20 >size=3D3></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV> ><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D3>'84 = >Westy</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML> > >------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE749C.E8ECB620-- > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:51:52 EST >From: Ben Epsin <TeamSumo1@AOL.COM> >Subject: Idling high and uneven. Problem filling with coolant. > >Problem: idle speed averages about 1300 rpms and is unsteady; wavers between >1200 and 1400. The idle screw is all the way in, lines are new and led >correctly (as far as I know), and timing is perfect. Could the idle screw be >too short? What should I be looking at? Any thoughts on how to correct this? >The engine was bought, used, in longblock form and everything else was from my >blown engine (hole in crankcase). > >Problem: can't get fluid to flow out of bleeder screw on radiator. I followed >the procedure for filling the cooling system as outlined in my book but could >never get any flow or even a hint of coolant out of the radiator bleeder. >However, I think that the amount of coolant in the system is close to the >capacity. Is this something to worry about? Is there a better way to do it? > >I think that many of the problems I am having are due to a poor manual. The >car came with Vanagon, Official Factory Repair Manual by Robert Bentley. I >find this manual to be poorly indexed, written, illustrated, and organized. I >have used regular service manuals written by Bentley for other cars over the >years (Jetta, Golf, Rabbit, Scirocco) and have been very happy with them. >Does Bentley have a regular service manual for the Vanagon (not the "Official >Factory" one)? Are there others out there to consider? > >Thanks in advance, > >Ben B. >'85 GL > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:54:24 -0500 >From: zyno <zyno@DC.INFI.NET> >Subject: temp sensor-86 vanagon > >I'm looking for the temp sensor that sends signals to the ECU on a 86 >Vanagon? >The number on the sensor is 025906041A. >Thanks in advance, >Tony > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:12:31 -0500 >From: Bill Knight <bill@NS.ESC.STATE.NC.US> >Subject: Re: fuel injector hose > >Absolutely possible. Just slice the hose at the injector with a sharp >exacto knife blade. Cut up under the metal ring using the narrow pointed >end of the blade in order to reach the end of the hose which is protected by >that ring. Then the hose will twist off and you will see that it is a >barbed fitting. Just push the new piece of hose on and you are set. Just >be sure to use the special high pressure 7mm hose. You can clamp it if you >like, but the barbs hold it fine when you use the right kind of hose. > >Bill > >-----Original Message----- >From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf >Of Rick Koller >Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 1:08 PM >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: fuel injector hose > > >Hi all, > The archives are down so I thought I'd query the collective wisdom >of the >real timers. Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the small length >of hose that fits directly on a fuel injector? This is a 1.9 digijet >system. I thought I saw posted, sometime ago, that this was a viable option >as opposed to buying new injectors. Thanks. > >Rick Koller >'90 syncro westie >'91 gl autobox > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:09:32 EST >From: Todd Hill <Jwilli941@AOL.COM> >Subject: Re: CV 12 pt tool > > Eric.Henning@BAILEY.COM writes: > ><< If you have the 12 pt sockets screws on you cv joints > instead of the hex >> > >Something minor to mention here. The CV bolts aren't actually >a '12 point' or 'triple-square' but are a 'XZN'. 99.99% of the time >a 12pt. will work just fine and dandy, however. Take a hard look >at a new CV bolt and you'll notice that the little squares aren't >really set at 90* to each other. It looks more like 80* to me. > >Just some stupid trivia for your Monday enjoyment...... > >-Todd Hill > VolksWerks Transaxles > Olympia, WA > 360-412-0948 > >PS-What do I use to get the bolts out? A 3/8ths socket from >Wera. Will probably replace it soon with one from Mr. Snap-On. >Someone should make a 'ball end' style similar to the ball end >hex/allens. Might help with clearing the boot but then again it >might not provide enough bite on the bolt and you end up rounding >out the recess. Then you're stuck with the dreaded stripped CV >bolt scenario and we all know how much fun that is! > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 11:17:12 PST >From: Robert Lilley <vwvanman@EXCITE.COM> >Subject: Re: fuel injector hose > >Rick, >Yes it is. Cut off old fuel line as close to the injector as possible, then >using a small knife or cutters, cut and pry out the remaining line. Cut a >length of hose equal to orginal length and press it on tight. I cut the >band off one before I saw the post on cutting out the old line. The three I >did are on tight and have no drips after 3K miles. > >Use the rubber covered, Like orginal, NOT the cloth covered, the metal band >will not hold the cloth covered. The band is too large and the cloth >covered is too small to stay on under pressure. > >Bus Depot had some orginal type. > >Robert. > > > >> Hi all, >> The archives are down so I thought I'd query the collective wisdom >of the >> real timers. Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the small >length >> of hose that fits directly on a fuel injector? This is a 1.9 digijet >> system. I thought I saw posted, sometime ago, that this was a viable >option >> as opposed to buying new injectors. Thanks. >> >> Rick Koller >> '90 syncro westie >> '91 gl autobox > > > > > >_______________________________________________________ >Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/ > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:00:57 -0800 >From: Stuart MacMillan <stuart@COBALTGROUP.COM> >Subject: Re: fuel injector hose > >There is another option to buying new injectors, have them rebuilt by a >machine shop that has the right equipment. There are some expensive, >specialized bench systems sold just for this purpose, so ask around or >look in the yellow pages. > >I had mine done after 175,000 miles at my local NAPA machine shop for >$35 each. New hoses, new injector needle and seat, flow tested and >guaranteed. All they re-use is the body and solenoid winding. > >So far I am very satisfied--25,000 trouble free miles. >-- >Stuart MacMillan >Manager, Case Program >800-909-8244 ext 208 > >Getting your share of the Net yet? >http://www.cobaltgroup.com >http://www.casedealer.com/demo >http://www.caseihdealer.com/demo > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:19:46 -0600 >From: Fred Younger <fyounger@AMFAM.COM> >Subject: Re: Idling high and uneven. Problem filling with coolant. > >With regard to no coolant out of the bleed screw: >How long did you wait? My temp gauge showed normal operating >temperature (needle pointing near the light bulb) and then I had to >wait several more minutes (don't remember exactly how long) before >it came out. I was ready to give up on it. >One other thought -- I had to ponder a bit before figuring out which >tank you're supposed to pour the coolant into. It's the one on the >left, with the cap on the top. But I'm not suggesting you're as slow >as I am :>) > >------------ >Fred, have bled 85 GL, currently have 91 GL which will get new >coolant in 3 weeks. > > >Ben Epsin wrote: >> >> Problem: idle speed averages about 1300 rpms and is unsteady; wavers between >> 1200 and 1400. The idle screw is all the way in, lines are new and led >> correctly (as far as I know), and timing is perfect. Could the idle screw be >> too short? What should I be looking at? Any thoughts on how to correct this? >> The engine was bought, used, in longblock form and everything else was >>from my >> blown engine (hole in crankcase). >> >> Problem: can't get fluid to flow out of bleeder screw on radiator. I >>followed >> the procedure for filling the cooling system as outlined in my book but could >> never get any flow or even a hint of coolant out of the radiator bleeder. >> However, I think that the amount of coolant in the system is close to the >> capacity. Is this something to worry about? Is there a better way to do it? >> >> I think that many of the problems I am having are due to a poor manual. The >> car came with Vanagon, Official Factory Repair Manual by Robert Bentley. I >> find this manual to be poorly indexed, written, illustrated, and >>organized. I >> have used regular service manuals written by Bentley for other cars over the >> years (Jetta, Golf, Rabbit, Scirocco) and have been very happy with them. >> Does Bentley have a regular service manual for the Vanagon (not the "Official >> Factory" one)? Are there others out there to consider? >> >> Thanks in advance, >> >> Ben B. >> '85 GL > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:48:52 -0800 >From: Alistair Bell <albell@UVIC.CA> >Subject: biodegradation, organics, etc. > >Lets think about this subject a bit more... > >Where does the rubber/oil/fuel/coolant go? - on the road and medians, and >into the ditches. And yes, some of it (who knows how much, I wish those >who are so certain would reference their assertions) is degraded by >bacteria. > >And bacteria are capable of breaking down a remarkably wide range of >compounds. > >But let me give you one example where the process doesn't quite work as >well as one might hope, that is in the degradation of de-icing fluids used >on airplanes during the winter. > >Alot of it (glycols), is used, and it runs off the plane and onto the >tarmac, through the drainage system and into the surface water system >(unless the airport has been constructed recently or has been retrofitted >with a catchment system). These glycols are somewhat toxic, organic or not, >and do affect aquatic organisms in an adverse way. Check out this new bumpersticker: http://homepages.infoseek.com/~volks3/vwsticker.html
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