Skip to main content
Gerry | Vanagon
Checking account...
← vanagon.com home · Continue the discussion in the forum
VanagonEuroVan
Subject:Re: '90 2.1 Syncro: Is my Alternator dying? Rebuild or replace?
From:David Beierl
Date:Thu, 8 Apr 1999 16:44:02 -0400

At 13:41 4/8/99 -0400, Fitz-Randolph, Douglas wrote:

>
> Similar to Greg Hamburg, my battery/alternator light stays on when I start
> the engine of my '90 syncro. (Not the OXS light, though.)  When I first step
> on the gas, the light goes off and stays off until the next time I start the
> engine.

Mine ('84) has been doing that for years, maybe since I had it?  Persisted
through alternator change.  No harm, ISTM -- just means that the system needs a
little RPM kick to start charging.

> The new panel also added an OXS light, which I also didn't have before. I'm
making the following assumptions...

The newer ones did away with the light b/c the sensors were rated to last much
longer on them.  I think you can just paint over the label and forget about it
:)

>
> 1) That the alt/bat light starting to come on until I first step on the gas
> coinciding with the new instrument panel install is just that - pure
> coincidence.

I think so.

>
> 2) That the light coming on is an early warning sign that my alternator is
> beginning to fail.

I don't think so. (YMMV)

>
> I'm planning to take a long drive this weekend, and I'm wondering if I should
> pick up an alternator just in case - or even replace mine altogether - before
> departing.

Me, I wouldn't.  I do carry a regulator, never had to use it, though -- or
rather, the time I did, the alternator really *had* died.  Got it rebuilt at a
local shop, took an hour and a half or so?  They weren't fazed at all by the
Bosch alternator, said they saw a lot of them.

>
>  Also, if I don't have to replace the alternator in an emergency situation, I
> wonder if anyone can point me to a good source of info about
> testing/rebuilding alternators. I've seen the replacement brushes/bearings at
> Bus Depot, and that seems like a far more economical way to go if it will fix
> the problem.

I think my rebuild cost about $125.  New diode plate, new rotor (old one had
spit out some windings, they said that was common failure mode), new bearings,
new regulator, tumble-clean case (with walnut shells, I think), year guarantee.

david

David Beierl - dbeierl@ibm.net

Have something to add on this topic today? Revive this thread in the forum »