Ken, thank you for your advice,  Distributor rotor and cap were heavily
oxidized.  Not Bosch, but an off-brand from FLAPS.  I am suspecting the
vacuum advance.  Can one replace the vacuum advance w/o removing the
distributor?

John
----- Original Message -----
From: <kdlewis@juno.com>
To: <jhlauterbach@EMAIL.MSN.COM>
Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: '84 Van Down

> John;
> First thing that jumped to mind is distributor problems. There are two
> problem areas I have encountered. The first is cracked insulation between
> the connector and electronics of the distributor. Be very carefully when
> disconnecting the plug, if you do not have a problem there you can easily
> cause one. When you inspect the area (you may have to pull the
> distributor out) you will see what I mean. Insulation cracks and
> conductors are prone to shorting out. I reinforced mine with JBWeld.
> The other distributor problem is the mechanical advance sticking.  Easy
> to check; twist the rotor and see if it snaps back. While your there put
> a few drops of oil on the felt button under the rotor. Stuck timing could
> give you the backfire you mentioned.
>
> Good Luck & Drive Safely
> Ken Lewis 86 Crewcab,60 T-5 Coupe.
>
> On Sat, 10 Apr 1999 19:06:58 -0400 John Lauterbach
> <jhlauterbach@EMAIL.MSN.COM> writes:
> >Went out to start van this afternoon.  Garage temp around 80F.  Van
> >started
> >but then misfired and stalled.  Finally got engine going, but idle was
> >not
> >stable until warm.  Suspect either temp II sensor or aux. air
> >regulator.
> >Checked hot and cold settings with an old regulator and they are about
> >the
> >same.  I had suspected aux. air regulator as idle too slow when cold
> >and too
> >fast when at full temp.  However, both closed at right temp.
> >
> >Both throttle microswitches appear ok.
> >
> >Any ideas?
> >
> >John Lauterbach
> >
>
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